Montenegro: About Kotor

Kotor is a tiny town in the Bay Area and it is protected by UNESCO. Every corner you turn in the old town, you are surprised by cute little shops, churches, bars and hip restaurants. And while you get lost in these charming cobblestone streets, local kitties guide you on your way. All of a sudden cats seem to be everywhere! So what is it with all the cats in Kotor? Not only can furry felines be found at every cobbled street corner, the souvenir shops are cat crazy and there is even a museum dedicated to cats. They even have a ‘catsquare’ :). The cats lived in Kotor for centuries and protected the town from rats, mice and snakes. Nowadays they have become a kind of symbol of good luck and prosperity.

Even though Kotor is located on the Bay area, it is not a real beach destination. It’s meant for those with a heart for romance, history, and old architecture. The look of the Old Town (Stari Grad) owes a lot to the Venetian Republic, so add a bit of elegance and attention to detail and you get the Venice vibe. Kotor town is protected by walls fortified by bastions. The bastions are a prominent feature and there’s only three doors allowing people to enter the town. Wandering the streets really feels like a step back into the olden days. Beautiful old buildings, like the Pima Palace, located across from the Buca Palace. The palace belonged to the Pima noble family, built in the seventeenth century. Kotor is also member of a leading hotelschool, located in a beautiful old building. If you are looking to stay there, I would totally recommend hotel Cattaro or Astoria, but there are many nice boutique hotels and airB&B’s.

Ismael, our hotel guide took me to this great restaurant a bit outside of Kotor, Verige65. This is a stunning bar with views of the narrowest bar of the Bay of Kotor. It is a modern and stylish bar and popular with tourists thanks to the incredible views. Cruise ships pass the restaurant and come so close that you feel like you can reach out and touch them. There were only some sailboats during my visit, but it is a gorgeous place to enjoy the scenery. Verige 65 is a bit of a touristy place, but I highly recommend to stop there, even just for a coffee.

Why Montenegro should be on your bucketlist

We all know that Croatia is beautiful and that people call it the new Italy. But I ‘ve never been to Montenegro and I must admit that it took me by surprise … Tiny and proud, Montenegro – “Black Mountain” – it has something of a fairy tale about it. The land seems to be put together by magic. A cobalt-blue fjord, fishermen’s huts in a sunny cove, a rocky path disappearing into woods, palaces, a church in a cave, an island built on the wrecks of enemy boats – all a bit disorganized, but with a logic of its own. It is a rare gem that is not yet truly discovered and developed. But it can stir up your imagination and if the sun comes out you realize that it’s like a postcard …I’m so thankful that I could be part of that living postcard…

With a population of just about 600.000, Montenegro has had a tumultuous history. Ruled by Illyrians and Romans, by infighting Slavic tribes, Huns and Goths, by battling Venetians and Ottomans, and most recently embroiled in the meltdown of Yugoslavia, Montenegro wears its war wounds as medals, rather than scars. It has rich remnants of its past occupiers and invaders. In a half hour drive along a bay-side corniche, I looked at beautiful landscape, Roman mosaics and a Venetian naval town, pretty much unblemished, before going on to admire art in a Serbian Orthodox church and a Roman Catholic chapel.

This trip through Croatia, Serbia, Bosnië-Hercegovina and Montenegro was so divers, it has lots of different vibes, impressions, different cultures, war scars, religions….the trip was fantastic and as always it is the people who make a journey unforgettable and I’m really grateful to have met them on my path. Our calm teddy bear and driver Perro, who guided us through the hills of Serbia and made us pass three frontiers, our diplomatic, chatty, knowledgeable and funny guide Bulent (with his sexy, husky Obama voice :)), our Montenegro guide Ismael, the lovely Antwerp couple Lieve and Dirk and my fantastic new friends that I will never forget – the golden girls. (Irene, Rina and Edith) I hope to still be as healthy, bubbly, cheeky and full of adventure at the age of 79!!! Thanks guys for making this another unforgettable adventure!

Roundtrip of Croatia & Montenegro & Bosnia-Herzegovina: Mostar

The visit to Mostar was not particularly one that I was looking forward to, but I’m really glad that it was a part of this roundtrip. The weathergods stopped crying and the sun came out… I had the feeling that I was in Turkey, with the small souk-like streets. But I could feel the ghosts of the past still lingering…and it reminded me about the movie ‘Romeo & Juliette of Sarajevo’

Ravi, our cityguide was only 9 years old when the war broke out. His family escaped to Germany. But they came back to rebuild their old house. Bosnia-Herzegovina was the most destroyed country in the BalkanWar in the 90s. It is hard to believe what happened in this peaceful country only 30 years ago and how much these people suffered. For centuries, both Mostar and Sarajevo were provided as examples of where various nationalities could peacefully and happily live next to each other. None of the inhabitants of this area really expected that things could suddenly change overnight and that friends, neighbors, families would be fighting against each other. Have we not learned enough from WOII? And…will people ever learn? The cleansing of places like Višegrad, Mostar, Srebrenica, Prijedor, and Zvornik was a war of racism and misogyny. The level of sexual violence against Bosnian Muslim women was so targeted and systematic — educated women were singled out for the worst treatment — that it led to rape being recognized for the first time as a weapon of war under international law. During the war, slightly more than 100,000 people were killed, about two-thirds of them Muslims. And why?

Today, the first thing I noticed about Mostar was its incredible beauty. The city, located in the valley of the Neretva river and surrounded by mountains, is one of the most picturesque places on this trip. Here and there, the tall, slim towers of minarets mark their location in the city – and clearly show how the city is divided, which part belongs to Muslim Bosnians and which to Christian Croats. The division of the city was also the reason why it marked its place in the worlds’ history. Mostar was under siege for 18 months, during which the most remarkable moment was the destruction of Stari Most (Old Bridge).

Now the Stari Most, the signature of Mostar, is the most photographed spot in the city and probably in the whole country. But the bridge, that originally dated back to the 16th century and stood in that place for 427 years, was destroyed on November 9, 1993. The structure that is so admired now, the symbol of the city, re-opened on July 23, 2004. The destruction of the old bridge was one of the sad symbols of the Balkan war and it’s still very vivid in the memory of the inhabitants. Inscriptions on the stones around the bridge, saying “Don’t forget ‘93” or murals showing how the bridge was rebuilt to remind people.

But war scars in Mostar are not only seen in the presence of Stari Most. When walking around the city, it’s easy to notice where the war line was. Destroyed houses haunt from the main streets of the city, so many buildings still have bullet holes all over them – and these are almost always on only one side of the road. Even in the little souk-like shops, the venders sell empty shells, gas masks and tell you sad stories. We enjoyed a fabulousnesses cevapi lunch of near the river and thought about how precious life was…Lots of wars happen to claim more territory and where people try to invade a country. This one was different. There was so much cruelty and even enjoyment; new ways were invented of killing people in this war. All that hatred, the rapes and the ethnic cleansing….amongst friends and neigbours…..Freedom is a very precious thing indeed.

Vacation in Montenegro: Porto Novi and the rich and famous

After Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina, we end our tour in Montenegro for a well deserved few days of relaxation. Nowadays Montenegro is a top tourist destination. Some even call it the “Monte Carlo of the Adriatic.” It is here that you’ll find the luxurious getaway resorts like the Regent Porto Montenegro in Tivat, The Chedi in Luštica Bay, the Nikki Beach Hotel & Beach Club in Radovići, the One&Only Portonovi, and the Aman Sveti Stefan (currently closed over a beach access dispute), as well as homes for sale or rent. The country increasingly draws Americans and Europeans in the summer months because of its proximity to Croatia, Greece, and Italy

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Offering some of the world’s best scenic escapes, the country is no stranger to Hollywood stars. Icons like Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren vacationed here in the 1970s. Madonna, the Beckhams, and Naomi Campbell have all journeyed here, while back in 2010, then-couple Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie visited the country. Pitt — who took Jolie to see such bayside towns as Perast and Kotor, where he filmed the 1988 film The Dark Side of the Sun — at one point had to get out of his car to ask paparazzi to respect his holiday. No paparazzi for me, except maybe for the toothless fisherman :). But I loved the little town of Perast, with the fisherman and the cozy restaurants overlooking the ocean. Just in front of Perast, there are 2 tiny islands – the Catholic monastery of Saint George, and Our Lady of the Rocks. The story behind the island is of two sailors who saw an icon of the Madonna and child resting on the rock. They thought it was a good luck miracle and afterwards left stones where the icon was found, which in time evolved into a tradition and an island and small chapel were formed. Every year on June 22 locals take their boats and bring rocks to the island to make it bigger. The ‘Lady of the Rocks’ island is also home to a Catholic church. We visited the island by boat and I very much enjoyed the little church.Check out the hotel that I’d choose if I would be staying there: the ‘Heritage Grand hotel’. Small, quiet and chic. You also have some cute apartments in Perast. We also visited Tivat, a coastal town nestled away between two cliffs in the northeast corner of Montenegro.

We are staying at the Karin Kumbor hotel, a 10 minute walk from Portonovi, located in a fjord-like setting. With a feel that’s part Lake Como, part Monte Carlo, Portonovi is flanked by mountains and the area is filled with luxury boutiques, high-end restaurants like ‘the Square, the luxury One & Only hotel, and a lot of eye-catching real estate. Mega-yachts can be seen anchored in the adjacent Bay of Kotor. Several years ago Tivat and Potonovi and its mountainous surroundings attracted Canadian businessman Peter Munk, the Chairman of the world’s largest gold mining corporation Barrick Gold. He was visiting the Adriatic coast from aboard his yacht and took a day trip from Dubrovnik to Montenegro and Boka Kotorska. The result of his idea born during that day trip was to build the most luxurious marina at the Adriatic. Check out the interesting story here. I must admit that I don’t know if it would rather stay at Porto Novi, at Tivat or if it would be nicer to stay at the Aman resort in Sveti Stefan. There are many holiday destinations that you associate with A-list appeal like Cannes in France, Mykonos in Greece or Gstaad in Switzerland, but the iconic islet of Sveti Stefan in Montenegro has managed to maintain an aura of hush-hush exclusivity despite having hosted the world’s biggest names. Tennis player Novak Djokovic recently got married there – hiring out the entire island for his wedding party. All of the places are luxurious, so I like all of them 🙂

“Along with its gorgeous location and infrastructure Portonovi resort offers a higher level of luxury in the area. 15 years ago, Montenegro and its breathtaking natural beauty was a well-kept secret. Now that the secret is out, it might become just another luxury tourist destination. I’m happy that I got to see it now, still in it’s raw beauty. But like a Montenegrin said, who came back after living 10 years in Canada. Whatever happens, they can’t take away the beauty of the mountains and the ocean….

Roundtrip of Croatia & Montenegro & Bosnia-Herzegovina: Split, the palace of Diocletianus and Ston, famous for it’s oysters.

Today we visited another UNESCO heritage site. Split…. And yes indeed, some places just have it all, breathtaking architecture, from the Greek times till our day – beautiful small alleys and charming local restaurants on every corner. The Greeks could not resist the beauty of these places, neither could the Romans, nor the Venetians and the list of people who came here just goes on and on. And now I am here too 🙂

When I saw the palace of Diocletianus, I wanted to know a bit more about the famous emperor. Who was Diocletianus and was he the genius who saved the Roman empire from extinction or was he just part tyrant/ part organisational genius? Diocletian was born in the Balkans in 244, and he grew up in a chaotic environment with little government or stability. He had begun life in obscurity – his father was said to be a freed slave. His force of personality, and genius for administration propelled him through a career in the army. At that time, Rome was experiencing a prolonged period of anarchy, which nearly destroyed the Empire. When Diocletian was proclaimed emperor, the city was still dealing with internal rebellions, barbarian incursions, and multiple claimants to the throne. The Roman Empire had devolved into a shaky shell of what it had once been. The rise to power of Diocletian was very typical for this time. (And I would dare to say that it is typical of all times) He was a strong military commander who was popular among his troops, and his legions proclaimed him Emperor in Nicomedia (modern Turkey) in 284. Because of the authoritarian nature of the monarchy at the time, the Diocletian rule and the period that followed it, are sometimes referred to as the dominant period. However, this form of rule seemed to
be necessary for such a time of chaos. Diocletian had to make people believe that all the power truly resided in his hands and that it could not be taken away from him. This was the only way for him to ensure that he is not vulnerable and his ability to create such a powerful image of himself was extremely effective. As a result, he maintained power for 20 years! It is safe to say that Diocletian resuscitated Rome, and due to his efforts, the empire carried on until the 5th century. He retired voluntary and the it is believed that he spent the rest of his life quietly in his palace, gardening. If we compare this to the world of today, not that much has changed….

I did love the medieval architecture, the roman remains and the Gothic and Renaissance palaces. When you take a seat on the stairs at the emperor’s square before the bell tower of the St. Domnius Cathedral and take a lookup in the sky, you feel, as the legend has it, the old Diocletian had his palace built in the center of the world. One of the things that I realised straight away was that it’s probably a good idea to just put the streetmap away and allow yourself to get truly lost in the windy streets of Split. Embrace it, enjoy it (that’s what I’m saying anyway after a good 40 minutes running around not knowing where I am or which way to walk) :-). Seriously though, it is a great way to explore the city and it’s hard not to bump into all the sights you’ll want to see.

After all that beauty, we made a stop in Ston. Like many of Croatia’s medieval towns and cities, Ston is surrounded and protected by a defensive stone wall. But unlike Croatia’s other walled cities, Ston has a unique claim to fame – its 14th century stone walls have been dubbed the “European Great Wall. Ston is also famous for it’s oysters and good wine….All of these delicacies are highly regarded by foodies and chefs around the globe. In fact, you can pretty much guarantee that any oysters you eat here will have been plucked from the ocean that morning, if not within the past few hours. What a life of luxury 🙂

Roundtrip of Croatia and Montenegro – Day 1: Dubrovnik

I’m very excited to discover a city that I have never been before. Dubrovnik in Croatia….In the 80s, I went with my parents to Rovinj in Istria and now I look forward to further explore this beautiful country of Croatia. Dubrovnik has attracted more than its share of superlatives over the years – it’s known as the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ and according to playwright George Bernard Shaw “Those who seek paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik”. Big words – but Dubrovnik lived up to the high expectations and I couldn’t help being charmed by the vibe of the city.

Entering the city through the Pile Gate, there might be a lot more visitors and gift shops than a few centuries ago but there’s still the feeling that not too much else has changed. The old city is pedestrianised, so you don’t have to worry about traffic as you wander through the marble-paved streets. This old city is a jumbled mixture of Gothic and Renaissance churches, Venetian palazzos and carved fountains, mixed in with terrace restaurants and a growing array of smart boutiques and hotels. But one of the best things to do is to get up high above the city onto its walls. The whole of the old city is encircled by 1.2 miles of thick stone walls which reach up to 25 metres high and six metres wide in places and have been protecting the city for centuries – whether that’s from invaders or earthquakes.

The first city walls were built in the 11th century but the shape you see today dates back to the 14th century when Dubrovnik gained independence from Venice. As well as the walls there are four gates to let people in and out – two by land and two by sea – and four fortresses to protect the most vulnerable points. Despite more than its fair share of attacks over the years, the walls protected Dubrovnik for centuries without ever being breached. But one thing that has left its mark on them is a more recent conflict – the Balkan Wars. The city was subject to major bombing during the 1990s, though it’s hard to spot it now. The only clues you have are the pockmarks left on some buildings and a few roofs which have been restored, with their bright orange newer roof tiles standing out against the more weathered originals. Walking the walls also gives you a bird’s-eye view right into the homes and gardens of the city’s residents. You get little snapshots of their everyday life as you pass – hanging out washing from their windows, drinking coffee in the garden, stretched out on the rocks catching some sun. Though you can’t help wondering what they make of having a procession of tourists wandering past every day, and whether they resent having to close their shutters to escape the constant eyes and camera lenses. The morning sunshine was just about perfect for walking around and having a drink. I’d been tipped off about Buža bar which I spotted en route, and a seat under the umbrellas right on the waterfront looked hard to beat.

So after a one-hour tour with a local guide, we knew that Dubrovnik was an ancient City. We also learned that it was steeped in history, but here are a few facts which made me sit up and take notice. Ohhhh yes… I learn something new every day…
1. It’s claimed that the world’s first commercial pharmacy opened in Dubrovnik in 1317. Allied to the Monastery then, it is still in existence today, but with rather more recognisable modern remedies. That said, it still stocks some creams and herbal teas with recipes faithful right back to the 1300s.
2. Dubrovnik was the first ‘country’ (being a Republic at the time), to banish slavery in 1416.
3. Dubrovnik had the first orphanage in the world, which opened its doors to take in children in 1432.
4. Agatha Christie spent her second honeymoon in Dubrovnik.
5. Dubrovnik is quite the Grande Dame of the film world having featured in Game of Thrones, Star Wars and Robin Hood
6. The Jesuit Staircase is the Game of Thrones filming spot for perhaps one of the most iconic scenes in the series, Cersei’s Walk of Shame. This is the scene where Cersei was forced to walk naked through the streets while everybody yells “Shame (just for the record: I kept my clothes on when I walked it :))

I was intrigued to learn more about the first orphanage and here is what I learned about the unwanted babies of Dubrovnik:
In much of Europe, during difficult times when young mothers couldn’t keep their baby, it was common to dump the newborn into the trash. (Can you imagine…) But not in Dubrovnik! Unlike most places in Europe, Dubrovnik had an orphanage and a process to handle the situation of unwanted babies. A mother could come out into the night with a black hood and leave the newborn in the care of the orphanage. The hood ensured anonymity and no questions were asked. Before giving the baby away, the mother made two identical blankets. One to wrap the baby and one for herself. If her conditions improved, she could use the blanket to claim the baby back from he orphanage….What a story!

BRAFA 2023

This year, I’m joining my friend and art lover Claire to BRAFA. The Brafa Art Fair is one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious art fairs. Whereas I’m just a lover of all fine things in life, Claire is really passionate about art. She is also a bit of an artist herself. Check out her website here. I’m fortunate to have such an expert with me and I’ve been looking forward to this expo for a while. This year, the theme is Art Nouveau. What better place to do this than Brussels, with monuments like the Hortamuseum and the MiM as Art Nouveau pearls throughout the capital of Belgium. Even the design on the carpet is based on original drawings by Victor Horta. I must say that my preference went to last years’ carpet designed by our own Arne Quinze :)

Since every piece of art is for sale, it is always a game betting on finding the most expensive piece of art. This year it was ‘Dot Obsession’ from Yayoi Kusama. Since Louis Vuitton has another contract with her again, I knew a little bit about the ‘polka dot queen’. In my eyes, she is an very lovable artist. Do you know that Kusama checked herself into a psychiatric institute in Tokyo in 1977 and lives there ever since, working in her studio across the street every day. She is 93 today. Here is a little bit about her very intriguing life story. Boon gallery from Knokke was selling her piece for 2,2 million euro.!!! The Andy Warhol that hung next to it at 500.000 immediately felt like a real bargain 🙂

Another artist that I like because her art makes me happy and because she empowers women, is Niki de Saint Phalle. Especially her ‘Nanas au pouvoir’ . Here is the story. We were a bit hungry and saw a few yummy strawberries lying around…o noooooo, they were art!!!! Firmly glued on a bronze statue by Tony Matelli.

Seeing so much beauty made our heads spin. Our hearts were racing and the adrenaline was skyhigh….we became dizzy as we were in art heaven …. There were just too many incredible pieces of art: A lot of Bram Bogaerts, Alechynski’s, Chagalls, Andy Warhol, Panamarenko, Wesselman, Christo’s, Miro’s and so many many more….This exhibit is a true showcase for collection pieces as well as contemporary authors. And despite the fact that we did not buy anything, it was a fresh source of inspiration and we felt energised and fresh again!

As Meryl Streep once finished her marvellous speech upon receiving her Golden Globe: ‘Take your broken heart and turn it into art.” And everybody has a different way of making art….But, as said…I’m just a lover of nice things and BRAFA is definitively WAUW!

https://luxuryinvestmentmagazine.com/brafa-2023-an-exceptional-result-for-this-68th-edition/?fbclid=IwAR2l7Za5rATCY19quSb5LFfR6L-5_IOt1PmWqnjjk4GYIrDEM40yrA-Ju4U

Why Vienna should be on your bucketlist

As globetrotters, we discover new cities and places all the time. Some of these places, we fall in love with at first sight, others we do not like all that much or we need a bit longer to appreciate. Here are some of the reasons why I fell in love with Vienna…

The baroque buildings in Vienna are almost as delicious as their Apfelstrudel! Almost. My camera was ready to explode at all the fancy architecture! Seriously, I thought I fell into an endless pinterest board on this trip. Which is both bad and amazing due to my out of control pinterest addiction, but that’s a story for another day.

I especially loved the bright white, the yellow and the pink exteriors, being a complete sucker for feminine pastel colours. I also adored the Ancient Greek and Roman-inspired statues perched on top of the roofs as they gazed down at the passerby. The buildings and the big broad walkways added another layer to Vienna’s already elegant ambiance. And of course, we can’t forget how clean and well-maintained all these buildings are. The city is clean, the busses, metro’s and trains run on time, you feel safe and the people are very charming and they have one thing in common – they all love Vienna… Another insider tip: look at the traffic lights in the city. There are three individual symbols to find both in red and green. All couples representing a male couple, a female couple and a male/female couple and they are ever so cute. They even have names “Let’s go together “, “Feeling” and “The voice of love”. They were designed at the time Vienna hosted the Eurovision to highlight the city’s views of inclusivity. A discreet, but lovely gesture, no?

And then the art…. Over a 100 years ago, artists like Gustav Klimt sent shock waves through the Viennese coffee cafes and helped to launch modern art. Now, the city is saturated with more than 250 listed museums and collections. This number includes opulent palaces, small museums, composers’ memorial rooms, and quirky private collections. Art is just everywhere.

I realise that I did not mention shopping before, but Vienna certainly is not short on luxury shopping opportunities. The ‘Goldenes Quartier’, is the city’s home to Luis Vuitton, Prada, and Saint Laurent. Located off the Kohlmarkt in the 1st District. And you know a city is fancy when they need to extend their posh shopping streets because they just can’t accomodate every store dying to be there. Connecting the Graben with Hofburg Palace, another luxurious shopping street is more than just a means to an end when getting around the city. This is where you go to sample the delicacies at Demel, shop (or stare – like me) Tiffany’s, and try on some high fashion at Burburys, Ferragamo, and Christian Dior.

And then the food. Although wining & dining was not our main focus on this trip, you cannot go hungry in Vienna. Below are some tips:
– Sacher torte: This famous chocolate cake is one of the most decadent desserts and you should taste it at Hotel Sacher.
– Schnitzel: You can’t go to Vienna without eating a wiener schnitzel! The most famous restaurant is the Figlmüller but there are plenty of restaurants around that serve this dish.
– Finger sandwiches: These little sandwiches are the perfect light lunch or snack and great for any kind of eater. I like them from Trzesniewski.
– Apple strudel: Sweet cinnamon and apple filled pastry. You can’t go wrong.
Not to forget the coffee…Right in the heart of Vienna, on the cobble-stoned Franziskanerplatz square, is one of the most loved coffee houses by the Viennese: Das Kleines Café. This charming cafe from the 1970’s serves Viennese coffee and snacks just like time stood still. Most likely you’ll see old men with their newspaper open, drinking coffee or chatting with fellow locals. With limited tables and seats, only the lucky ones can sit under the arched ceilings. But if you truly want to feel like a local, Kleines Cafe is the place to be. Tip: Order the Melange — an espresso shot served in a large coffee cup topped with steamed milk and milk foam.

Let me end this love-story of Vienna with a song from 1912 that I heard Jonas Kaufman perform in Brussels a few years ago. Not sure if you know it: “Wien, Wien, nur du allein, solst stets die Stadt meiner Träume sein! Dort, wo ich glücklich und selig bin, ist Wien, ist Wien, mein Wien!

Day 3 in Vienna: Visit of the Belvedere and the highlight of our trip: ‘Aida opera’ with Anna Netrebko.

Spread over 90,000 square metres in central Vienna and including 60 cultural institutions, the MuseumsQuartier in Vienna is one of the largest districts for contemporary art and culture in the world. The sky is the limit at the ‘MuseumsQuartier’. Historic architecture meets contemporary design. High culture meets subcultures. The spectrum ranges from fine art, architecture, music, fashion, theater, dance, literature, street art to design and photography. They even have a game culture in Vienna. (My son would be happy!) The good news is that everything is within walking distance from Hotel Beethoven. Since it was a beautiful and sunny day, we decided to walk to the Belvedere.

The Belvedere Palace is one of many art museums in the city, but perhaps one of the most beautiful. We only visited the upper Belvedere where you can admire a large collection of works by the famous Viennese artist Gustav Klimt as well as Egon Schiele who was a protégé of Klimt’s. If you are a fan of art, and especially of expressionists like Egon Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka or Claude Monet, then you should definitely plan a visit there. The Belvedere is simply stunning. Since it was Saturday, there were lots of people, but we still managed to tak in all of the beauty.

The real highlight of the day was of course the reason for us coming to Vienna: The premiere of Aida with superstars Netrebko, Kaufman, Garancia & Salsi. We booked the tickets in May last year and the theater was packet. The premiere was sold out! You could see people with signs looking to buy last minute tickets. I hesitated a bit to exchange my ticket (with a profit of course) for a possible next trip, but then I heard that it was chance of a lifetime to watch those 4 topsingers perform together, so I decided against it. I did not regret it for one second!

Last time we saw Anna Netrebko was in 2021 in Verona. That was before the Ukraine war. As the superstar is Russian and she did not speak out against Russia, lots of operafans criticised her. She was even shunned from several opera houses. Knowing that Netrebko is an instagram-age diva, constantly checking her status, she found herself in a difficult position. So, she came onstage … calculating, making sure that she was delivering what her fans expected of her. This prima donna, for whom each new role is one more shot at the spotlight. Boy did she deliver! When she exploded into “Ritorna vincitor,” slipping without a glitch from high peal to feline snarl. Aida is in an impossible position, daughter of a king enslaved by another, in love with the warrior whose job it is to slaughter her people. Netrebko slaps down her emotional cards — anger, jealousy, passion, and pessimism — then assembles them into a winning hand. Later, in the famously unforgiving aria “O Patria Mia,” in which she longs for the “green hills and fragrant streams” of her native Ethiopia, she suspends a luminous high C above the stage and lets it hover there, weightless and bright. Tears come to my eyes….this is a really emotional moment – being in Vienna with my 82-year old mum, watching these great stars perform in the opera Aida. Memorable

The reviews all said that it was a ‘once in a lifetime ‘ chance to see these 4 stars perform together: https://klassik-begeistert.de/giuseppe-verdi-aida-elina-garanca-anna-netrebko-jonas-kaufmann-wiener-staatsoper-21-januar-2023/

Our hotel Beethoven in Vienna

I had been searching the internet for a while to find a perfect and affordable hotel in the center of Vienna. All of a sudden, I stumbled upon Hotel Beethoven. Location was the biggest criteria, since my mum has trouble walking, so it had to be near the Opera. Hotel Beethoven is only one block away from the Naschmarkt, the vast 16th-century origin market, offering fine food and some restaurant stalls. It is also at walking distance from most of the cities major attractions: the Hofburg Palace, the Graben & Kartner shopping streets, the Belvedere and the museum quarter…. Ideal location – check!

The history and the pictures somehow intrigued me, so I took a chance and booked us a room. If there’s one adjective that can properly describe this place, it’s cosy eclectic. As soon as we walked inside the lobby/reception area, we were greeted by the Dutch ‘ex-history teacher’ Bram and I immediately felt at home. Since we booked with the hotel directly, we received museum tickets and they also offered us tea/coffee/cake time in the afternoon. A very nice perk indeed…

On entering the room, a personal note, a bar of chocolate and a bottle of sparkling wine welcomed us. What more do you need, right? The rooms are spacious and a bit quirky, but the eclectic style grows on you. What I thought was interesting is that each of the six floors has a unique theme pertaining to the history and culture of Vienna. “Each room is dedicated to a distinguished personality of the theme.” Ranging from Viennese coffeehouse literati, secession art to Beethoven, love and desire, and strong women. A ‘strong woman’ room for me please ;). I also learned that each of the rooms is color-coded. As a result, the rooms have their own style and vibe, which makes it quite special. The grandmother of the previous owner was Helene Jungreuthmayr. She was a single mother of 2. In 1953 she remodeled the historistic apartment building, originally built in 1902, When Barbara Ludwig took over, she integrated many pieces from her family in the hotel. Her mother was a pianoplayer, hence the Bösendorfer grand piano. She and her supercute labradoodle Leopold are always somewhere in the hotel. Needless to say that I fell in love with Poldi, the dog :)… A cosy hotel with a strong lady boss and a supercute dog!!!!