Cinque Terre: beautiful but crowded

Cinque Terre has been on my bucket list ever since I saw a postcard of the beautiful colored houses tumbling down the turquoise water of the Mediterranean Sea. Cinque Terre, five magical villages along the Ligurian Coast of Italy. And here I am…finally!

I must admit, the view on the sorbetto-like (to say it in Italian :)) colored houses—grapefruit, lemon, raspberry and peach—as they tumble down to the water is amazing. However…this beauty has a price called ‘mass tourism’. I found it really frightening how so many people could fit in the small village alleyways. Trains were packed, impossible to find a chair on a terrace and toilets were all ‘out of order’! But then again: the coastlines and picturesque villages of Cinque Terre draw over 2.5 million visitors a year! Cinque Terre has changed from a UNESCO heritage site to an open-air museum that thousands of people pile through.

Still, I was happy to be here. In the early days, Cinque Terre was exposed to potential attacks by pirates, like most coastal towns. That is why al the villages were built with narrow streets, sometimes very narrow, to confuse the attacker and to give the locals a chance to defend themselves. But what makes these villages so special, I asked myself while I tried to find my way back through the maze of alleyways and the hundred of stairs… They are tiny, very picturesque, and last but not least simply indescribably photogenic. The villages are perfectly nestled against the rugged cliffs and their location is breathtaking. The 5 villages from North to south are Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. I decided to do only 3 so I could experience the vibe in each one. Vernazza was my first stop, then a beach stop in Riomaggiore to end with the beautiful Manarola.

Manarola was my personal favorite. The streets are walkable and the best panorama view is directly by the legendary Nessum Dorma. Now for those who know that I’m a bit of an opera fan, they might think that Isabelle has taken it a notch too far…I’m not talking about the opera Turandot, but about a restaurant. Nessun Dorma is a bit of an institution in Cinque Terre. The story is that it began as a bar after Simone, the owner, won the property in a contest to decide how to make use of this bare strip of land overlooking the sea. Soon after the bar opened, Simone launched the ‘Pesto Experience’ to teach visitors how to make this holiest of local dishes. But it didn’t stop there. Now Nessun Dorma also boasts a wine bar in the converted wine cellar of a church in Manarola’s square. With this development has come a host of wine experiences, including tastings and walks through the vineyards around Manarola. Since then, Nessun Dorma has added boat tours to their complement of tourist services. As far as I can tell, all of their experiences are a blast. When I watched a handsome Italian give basil leaves to the tourists and explain about Italian cooking, I immediately pictured the old days with fishermen coming home, eager for a home cooked meal, and women with baskets on their backs bringing ingredients from their terraced gardens. Because Cinque Terre has those terraced hills, filled mostly with grapevines and beautiful lemon trees. They are very inventive when it comes to lemons. You will find lemon perfume, lemon soaps, sorbetto granita and lemon cake. They even have their own version of limoncello called limoncino. And lots of freshly squeezed lemon juice. Since I could not find an empty seat on one of the terraces, I sipped a freshly squeezed juice from a stand and felt the vitamins perk up my tired body and reflected that my life requires more fresh juice…

The fact that Cinque Terre felt overcrowded to me (almost a bit like Bruges in the summer), I couldn’t help but think how it must be for the locals whose homes have developed into such a hotspot in recent years. In the beautiful lodge called ‘La Toretta’, you could find some calm and it looked like a haven of peace and tranquillity amidst all the craziness. Because to be honest: I only experienced this for one day trip and felt sad to the idea that these towns have become a victim of over-tourism. Has Cinque Terre turned into Cinque Terror and how to organize responsible tourism in the future?

About the cruise ship: the Celebrity Edge

I cannot end this blog without writing about our cruise on the Celebrity Edge. Describing the feeling of cruising is hard when you have never experienced it before. Cruise ships are the biggest things on the planet that can move. It is another world, a whole city in the middle of the ocean…and yes …it is a ‘she’ – since ships are female 🙂

I have been on a few cruises before, but never with Celebrity nor Royal Caribbean. But if I were to chose, I would always cruise with the Celebrity family. Everything was just perfect! There is nothing that I can think of that I would have liked better. From beginning to the end. The ship was so elegant and our captain was the very man of my dreams. Captain Tasos Kafetzis (be sure to follow his instagram on @travelwithcaptaintasos), he was just soooo passionate and kind. (Did I mention very good looking :)) He talked about why he became a captain. Born in Piraeus (Greece), he admired his 11-year older brother who was captain on a cruise ship. Now, he and his brother will be the first on the newest ship, the Celebrity Ascent . The ship will make its debut in December 2023.
The design of our ship was also something that I have never seen before. She was modern but still refined and elegant, with an outside pool, an inside relaxing spa area and even a rooftop garden. Ever imagined taking a luxury shower with views of the ocean with ‘smart glass’ technology? You can on the Edge. The most special though was the moving bar, called ‘the Magic Carpet ‘. The Edge also works on sustainable energy with a ‘green hub’ , solar power and even a system of ‘Advanced Wastewater Purification’ , meaning that toilet water is purified and you can even drink it (just to be clear: I did not try this…)
Evening entertainment was also very different than on the other cruises. This was the first time that we danced away on ‘silent disco night’ – what a fun experience. We had the comedian Ralph Harris and the crossover singer Stephen Barry, who is actually an English literature teacher from Ireland…but God, what a voice…when he sang Nessus Dorma, I truly had goosebumps.

On ‘seaday’, I especially enjoyed the ‘woman wellness pamper party’, the cool clinic sculpting, the secrets of the celebrity edge by captain Tasos and the art auction. Can you believe that they had an Picasso exhibit (his vases that I had previously seen at BRAFA). I also loved the photographs from several artist like Jimmy Nelson, Helmut Newton, Hiro, Charles Freger and some beautiful photographs of artists that I did not know (Pujan Radoslaw, Cathleen Naundorf, Oye Diran, William Wegma and Kiki Xue). In the afternoon, I participated in the golf putting challenge, in the vintage Hermes discovery, had to blink away some tears watching the movie ‘Maverick’ on the rooftop garden and danced the night away in the ‘silent disco’. Doctor Andres also had a whole team on board to make you look 10 years younger with their non-surgical facelifts, fillers or sculpting. The ship has 10 restaurants, every one of them excellent. The food was just excellent – On the first night, we enjoyed the Cosmopolitan restaurant and the chicken melted in my mouth like butter. Did I mention the desserts? Heaven on earth! The only thing about all that yummy food is the waistline…but you just go and see Doctor Andres and the problem is solved. You could also work out in the gym with a frontal view on the ocean or go running on the running track. In Portofino I had a lovely discussion with Captain Tasos, but I was too starstruck to ask for a picture. (My only regret…) The captain is such a fine ‘mensch’: warm, kind, good looking, very smart and gracious, but most important of all: he is approachable and very humble. If you can parallel park a cruise ship that measures 3 football fields in length and soars 55 meter above the water – you could be a little cocky…He is so passionate when he talks about ships. He explained that a ship is like a human body with the captain as its brain, the chief engineer is the hart and the 1200 crew members are all vital organs of the ship. I also took a tender boat for the very first time, because cruise ships can’t enter Portofino. I was a bit worried that I might get seasick, but he reassured me that they were so stable and at the cost of 1 million per tender, I felt so much better :). He also explained that Celebrity has one female captain: Captain Kate McCue, who I’m now also following on instagram. She as well must be a very special lady – wauw.

Unfortunately I have to say goodbye to the ship that was my home for a week. The ship in itself is awesome, but it really is the staff, the performers and the people that turn the journey into a fantastic adventure! Celebrity: This is a farewell, but not a goodbye!

2023 – Portofino – memories …I fell in love…

Portofino is a picturesque village that looks like it’s straight out of a painting. It’s only a small fisher village on the Italian Riveria coastline. But the colored houses, the perfect harbour, the cobbled streets, the yachts lining the coast, make Portofino a match made in heaven. So far, this is definitively one of my favorite stops on this cruise…I fell in love with everything Portofino was about, and I honestly felt like I was in a movie the whole time I was there. Celebrities like Audrey Hepburn, Maria Callas, Humphrey Bogart, Clark Gable and even our prinses Paola stayed there. I am struggling to put into words just how perfect this place is. It is truly magical! And to add even more magic to this place is that my grandmother was on holiday in Portofino in her youth. She looked so stylish and beautiful with her black rimmed hat and her white skirt and blazer…The picture of her below with her schnautzer dog ‘Daisy’ must have been in 1933…And now I’m here in 2023…I wish she could see me…

Portofino is a popular tourist location. Each day there are a few ferries and cruise ships like ‘Celebrity’ that arrive in Portofino. In my opinion, there are too many tourists in this little town. But it seems that in the evening, when all the tourists have gone back on the ferries, Portofino becomes a much quieter Italian village again. This is probably when you see the real Portofino, the stylish locals and handsome Italian men with their pretty women and their families come out for drinks and dinner. Then is probably when the place oozes with glamour and sophistication. It just has that vibe…Unfortunately I was one of those cruise tourists and not a stylish local. But if I would be a stylish tourist, I would definitively want to stay in Hotel Splendido, a Belmond hotel, one of the best hotels in Italy. This hotel guested many international celebrities like the Duke of Windsor, Winston Churchill, and more recently the famous influencer Chiara Ferragni. Splendido offers glorious rooms with the most epic views of Portofino. A room with sea view and balcony costs about 2 000 euros per night during high season. Absolutely no problem to park your Ferrari in the hotel garage, or just outside the main entrance. Just check out their website…heaven…on my dream list is also a meal at the newly opened Michelin star restaurant Cracco Portofino. I would like to go, not only for the sea snails and blue lobster, but also for the sophisticated interior by Laura Sartori Rimini. Read the whole story here.

We did go up to visit the Brown Castle with its medieval relics, its neo-gothic architecture, its gorgeous garden and the 360° views of the sea, the national park and the town. This Genovese-built castle stood strong against the Venetians, Savoyards, Sardinians and Austrians, and later fell to Napoleon. In 1867, it was bought by a British diplomat and transformed into a private mansion. I would not mind living there at all :). I also visited the beautiful Parc that exhibited some modern art

Of course, I was curious to know more about this beautiful fisher’s village. The area of Portofino was previously known as the port of dolphins. During the jet-set era, in the late 50s, Portofino’s popularity exploded. The entire world’s socio-economic elite would spend their summers here. For about 30 years, Portofino was the summertime centre for the entire world’s upper classes. Anyone who was someone would absolutely have their superyacht in the harbour. Parties lasted until early hours at restaurants and nightclubs in the harbour. Then the party continued on one of the billionaires’ yachts. During Portofino’s heyday, the term “paparazzi” was invented. Photographers, who documented the lives of the rich and famous with cameras and super long lenses. The popular Italian song “I found my love in Portofino” is also related to the town. Several Italian and American movies were filmed in Portofino. In the mid-1990s, however, there was a major change in Portofino’s status as the epicentre of decadence and summer residence for the wealthiest. No one really knows why it happened. Perhaps it was the economic crisis that spread in the world. Or, the locals got sick and tired of everything. Anyway, the billionaires moved their superyachts and champagne-fuelled parties to the then quite unknown village of Saint-Tropez in France..

I must admit that I also absolutely adored the shopping in Portofino. Some brands like Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, and Dior have their stores here. But they also have gorgeous little boutiques. Overall, it’s a luxurious place, but accessible to anyone. I even bought 2 pairs of beautiful Italian shoes :).
It’s the elegant shops, the beautiful colors of the houses and the fine restaurants surrounded by nature and the Mediterranean Sea that make Portofino ‘a match made in heaven’. But what I will remember most is the magnificent scent of jasmin, the perfect glow of the sun on the water, the beautiful colored houses and just the sheer beauty of it all.

2023 – Cruise to Ajaccio

Next stop on our cruise is France, Ajaccio in Corsica. When I get off the ship, I need to show my mum the place where she and my dad spent their holidays. She always told me about them living in a hut on the beach, going by Zodiac to les Iles Sanguinaires and about my dad diving at night and getting lost….When we step off the ship, you can feel the French vibe. Ajaccio breathes that summer style that you’ll only find in France…from the chic cafés where the ladies sip wine in the sunshine to the market stalls piled high with colorful local products and delicious smelling ham and cheeses.

Ajaccio was founded in 1492 by the Genoese, a powerful maritime republic based on the northwest coast of Italy. The Genoese themselves built a fortified citadel, which still dominates the inner entrance to the bay. They isolated themselves from native islanders, contributing to a state of unrest. In 1553, the island-born patriot Sampiero Corso, backed by French forces, seized the city and enlarged the Citadel. Ajaccio remained in French hands for six years until being handed back to the Genoese. It remained under Genoese control until 1764, when, exhausted by the constant uprisings of Corsican rebels, the Genoese sold the island to the French. Corsica became part of France with Ajaccio as its capital. Napoleon Bonaparte was born in Ajaccio in 1769, going on to become emperor of France in 1804. He lived out his days in two exiles: one on the Italian island of Elba, and later the remote South Atlantic island of St. He Helena, where he died.
Later in the 19th century, Ajaccio became a fashionable and elegant holiday resort for Europeans, particularly the British, who saw the city as a chic alternative to France’s Côte d’Azur. Many of the grand, shuttered buildings in the old town originate from this time. The island served as the headquarters of the local resistance in World War II, and in 1943 was the first French city to be liberated from the Nazis.

Corsicans have a strong sense of identity and see themselves as Corsican before being French. They have their own language, with French, Tuscan, and Genoese influences. Despite falling into decline in the 1970s, their language is now taught in schools alongside French. This Mediterranean island (only 12 km from Sardinia) has a strong musical heritage, as well as its own regional cuisine and a thriving wine industry. Embracing the natural world is easy here. You can walk to the nearest beach for a swim, follow the Chemin des Crêtes hiking trail into the hills, or head further afield on a kayaking or snorkeling trip.

For a taste of the island’s raw beauty, visit the protected Iles Sanguinaires to the north of the city by boat, or head inland for the pink granite cliffs of the Prunelli Gorges, one of the most unique places to visit in Europe. The island of Corsica is still magnificently wild and rugged, with deep gorges and jagged coastlines. You’ll hear Corsicans talking with misty eyes about the maquis, the collective term for the wild herbs and aromatic scrub that grow in the hills, including heather, myrtle, Corsican mint, and strawberry tree (different from the strawberry plant). Corsicans claim they can detect the scent of their island across the water if they arrive by ship, and Napoleon famously mourned the fragrant aroma of his birthplace during his two exiles. Needless to say, the maquis is bottled and preserved as candles, body lotions, and room fragrances. Corsican bees even produce a maquis honey, believed to have curative powers. Golden eagles and falcons circle on the thermals above the mountains, while several species of seabird nest on the protected Iles Sanguinaires, close to the city. Corsica even has its own breed of dog, the brindle-coated Cursinu, which is used by shepherds.

You don’t have to be a fan of Napoleon to enjoy Ajaccio. However, you will find that his legacy is inextricably entwined with the city’s identity, from his birthplace, now a museum, to street names and statues. The more I read about the Emperor, the more I understand his place in the island’s psyche.

2023 – Ibiza

I was so excited to finally go to Ibiza…since Ibiza has been known as a magical island for centuries. There is a legend that there are still those who hang around their neck, a bag of leather or linen with sand from one of the island’s beaches to help them back if they ever needed to travel or return to their place of origin. It is said that wearing a piece of the land in a protective amulet on the body will protect them from bad luck. The stories about the island are legendary and speak in whispers about the reputation that this island still carries. The stories go that Nostradamus, who lived in the 15^th century, fell in love with the island and was here in person himself during his lifetime. Nostradamus put Eivissa (Ibiza) in the magical realms by writing that the island is the only possible refuge on earth when the day of final judgement arrives

The island notoriously attracts unusual characters to the island. The people who come here are often referred to as the types who have dropped out of other societies, the hippies, the thrill seekers, the migrants and the wanderers. The island does certainly attract its fair share of unusual characters who brighten and colour the backdrop.

Just one visit to some of the beaches and open-air markets showed us that it’s not just the everyday type of person who comes here and finds the island irresistible. Lots of hobo’s, artistic and tattooed people. We are just ordinary in comparison…

But there is indeed something mystical and attractive about the island. And it must be, since it is that mystery that draws people to it like a magnet. Ibiza has a strong energy. Also, romantic relationships are said to bond or bust when couples come to the island.
I guess that I will definitively need to come back :). When I return, I would like to stay in the Mirador Hotel, that was built for 19-century nobility, the Nobu or maybe the Atzaro Agroturismo hotel. Thanks to the yoga, mindfulness and meditation sessions this sustainable establishment now also attracts famous people, such as Shakira, Rihana and Kate Hudson. I would also like to visit the Tagomago island, one of the most secret and exclusive corners of Ibiza. It is said to be the destination of many actors, athletes and other personalities. You need a boat, a luxury yacht or helicopter to get there. Llentia Cove, a pebble beach that is known for the famous sculpture known as ‘rhythms of Life’, I would also check out. And another pearl of the area is Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera, where thousands of artists from all over Europe found a safe haven during the 60s and 70s. In Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera are art galleries and workshops, offering local citizens a barter between works of art and food. Too little time to explore but Ibiza, don’t you worry, I’ll be back! I have already planned a next trip 🙂

2023 – With Celebrity cruise to Valencia

We had a bike tour reserved in Valencia with ‘Sun & Bikes, but since it was raining, we decided on walking and I’m really glad that we did. Valencia is totally my kind of city. It’s small enough to walk or cycle around but big enough that there’s a long list of things to see and do. There’s something photogenic at every turn and I’ve found myself snapping away with my camera like I was a member of the paparazzi. I seriously couldn’t put my camera down! Sometimes it was a palm tree with an old cathedral lingering behind it. Sometimes it was an incredible monument, a beautiful bridge, a spellbinding church, a colourful market, some cool street art or simply an older gentleman drinking his coffee and looking like coming straight out of a Spanish Netflix series. 🙂

I think one of the reasons I’m loving Valencia so much is because I hadn’t expected it to be this beautiful. Valencia is overshadowed by Barcelona and Madrid like two older sisters who are taller and prettier. Valencia is like the little sister who will take off her glasses and shake out her hair and suddenly everyone stops dead and goes, ‘Wow, how did we not notice her before!?’ But she’s not just beautiful. Oh no, this girl is smart and funny and creative and just about ticks every box on the list.

I also did I not know that Valencia has its own local language. It is coming from Latin and you can hear some similarities with Catalan. Many people believe that the two close languages are the same or similar, but they have a long story in the process to become a language more than a dialect. Despite that, Spanish is still the first language of Valencia, but you will find many signals, street names and official advertising also in Valenciano. The local language has been restored as the main grammar from a few years, after a long period under the dictatorship that was banning talking in public spaces in Valenciano.

One of the things that we have really appreciated in Valencia is the huge city park. The Turia Gardens is a former riverbed of the Turia river. Today this is the most famous green park in Valencia and is the largest in Europe. It is basically cutting the city in two perfect halves, with the new building and a few landmarks on the left side looking at the seaside, and the old town and the old walls on the right side. We strolled the ‘Route Culturia’ – the walk along the Turia with some culture, since you have the City of Arts and Sciences, a unique complex devoted to scientific center, the umbracle, the Oceanografico and the Palau de les Arts Raina Sofia. Valencia is definitively a city that I want to return to one day!

Pre-cruising in Barcelona

Before going on our cruise (the first one since Corona) we decided to arrive 1 day early and visit Barcelona. Wim has been to Barcelona many times, so he was my tourguide. We stayed at the very modern and a bit quirky Novotel hotel Cornella, as all hotels in Barcelona were fully booked or overpriced.

We started the sunny way in The Ciutat Vella, or ‘Old City’ in Catalan. This makes up the heart of Barcelona. Four neighborhoods lie within this district – El Raval, Barri Gòtic, La Barceloneta, and El Born – each with its own identity and individual character. Navigating the cobbled streets and narrow alleyways while gazing at the plants hanging up above, a walk through this part of town is straight out of a fairytale. Decorations are draped from side to side, street art and graffiti add a splash of color to ordinary walls, and string lights brighten up the paths receiving limited sunlight. The city’s largest religious building also stands here – Catedral de la Santa Creu i Santa Eulàlia, Barcelona Cathedral – displaying Gothic architecture at its finest. Among these very streets is where Barcelona’s history began many years ago, serving as a window into the Catalan culture then and now.

Barcelona is often described as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe with its fantastic architecture and its cosmopolitan culture. The line between architecture and art is a hard one to draw, especially when both are so embedded in the Spanish culture. Creative expression can be found all around Barcelona, in many more places than just the Picasso Museum and the pronounced exhibitions and galleries. Quirky sculptures and colorful murals are sprinkled throughout every corner of the city, street art and graffiti liven up the already energetic atmosphere. It comes as no surprise that the art scene in Barcelona is a source of inspiration for many.

Barcelona is known for being a melting pot of cultures and languages, and it sure lives up to the expectation. It is the biggest city on the Mediterranean coast, and is home to a lively and diverse community. With approximately 1.6 million people living in Barcelona, the city prides itself on being human in scale without losing a beat in its cultural diversity. Barcelona is so much more than a complex ecosystem of quarters and streets. Yes, if you stay in the urban heart of the city, you might find that one minute you’re surrounded by the look and feel of Medieval Europe and the next minute you’re staring at world-renowned contemporary architecture. But it doesn’t take more than a few minutes walk to find yourself on the beautiful beach by the Mediterranean sea, or in the midst of a beautiful, lush forest. For a city that has over 2,000 years of history, Barcelona is a place that embraces change and the future. This same spirit existed for the 1992 Olympics and with the inventive geniuses like Picasso and Dalí. Somehow, the positivity in the city translates into an atmosphere of sheer possibility and that is something that I love about cities. The energy it vibrates.

Can I say wow? I will venture out and say that this architectural whimsy might have something to do with the fun vibe you feel in Barcelona. It is just filled with whimsical design, playful architecture, and fabulous stores. And from the Sagrada Familia and the Gothic churches, to the Picasso Museum and the colourful Parc Guell, there really is something for everyone! Unfortunately we did not make it to Parc Guell, so hopefully I will see more of the architectural genius Antoni Gaudi’s his masterworks next time,