Why Marrakech should be on your bucket list

Marrakech is a shock to every sense you have. The loud warblings of the call to prayer and the persistent beckonings of the men who run shops in the souks constantly strike your ears.The pungent smell of incenses cover up a lingering smell of leather bags and donkeys who dutifully pull carts through the medina day and night. Marrakech is, to put it lightly, a place you experience with every one of your senses.

But Marrakech is also a city that is beautiful in moments of raw emotion — something worth embracing. Never have I felt okay with getting lost as I did in the winding streets of Marrakech, it was just part of the experience. (Although my mother might not agree) It’s a city that beckons you to truly be immersed in another country’s tradition. Hot mint tea in a riad, rooftop views with sizzling tajin, bartering over a pair of shoes, taking a left hand turn in hopes it will return you to your riad, all of this and more. But it’s not all hustle and bustle; there’s an abundance of green space in the city’s tropical gardens, palm groves and golf courses, framed by the majestic Atlas Mountains and azure blue skies. And then there is the Agafay desert…

So, when you first arrive in Marrakesh, brace yourself for a sensory overload; you will instantly be surrounded by intoxicating smells, the most vibrant colors and a cacophony of sounds that welcome you into the city and pave the way for an amazing experience.

Once a watering hole and a trading and resting spot for caravans along the Saharan routes, Marrakesh is now the fourth largest city in the Kingdom of Morocco and a trendy destination combining old and new, appealing to every taste and budget.

Go and see Marrakesh! I hope that you will get awed by the vibrant colors, the smells and the tradition. What was supposed to be a romantic holiday with my boyfriend, turned out to be a crazy and memorable adventure with my mum. And truly? I would not have wanted to do this trip with anyone else!!!! My mother is amazing and I will never forget how courageous she was during the entire holiday!!!

History of Marrakech and where to stay

When I travel to a country, I always like to read up on it’s history. More important of course, I start long in advance checking where to stay and the different possibilities. This time, I really wanted to stay at a riad, since I had read so much about these wonderful places behind the big doors.

The history of Marrakech goes back nearly a thousand years. It began as nothing more than a watering hole for the local Berber tribes, until the city was founded by Almoravid leader Youssef Ibn Tashufin during the mid-11 century.Under Almoravid rule, Marrakesh served as the capital and developed into a magnificent Islamic city, until 1147 when it fell to the Almohads, who basically destroyed all existing religious and civic structures.

Nearly one hundred years later, in 1269 the Marinids took control of Marrakesh but they preferred to use the northern city of Fez as their capital. As a result, a period of steep decline followed and Marrakesh was largely neglected for almost 300 years.

In 1525 the city was captured by the Saadian sharifs and, after they captured Fez in 1549, Marrakesh resumed its status as Imperial capital of a unified Morocco. During this time the city reached its grandeur because the Saadians greatly embellished it. Examples of architecture from this period are The Saadian Tombs, Al Badi Palace and the Ben Youssef Madrasa. In 1669 the city was captured by the Alawite sharifs and, although Marrakesh served as a residence for the sultans, it was not used as a definitive capital, since the sultans chose to move their courts frequently between cities.

Almost another century went by before Mohammed III brought the city back to life in the mid 1700s. Until 1867, the sultan had to grant permission to European travelers to enter the city but European influence began to expand in Morocco as it became the subject of imperial rivalries, European countries seeking its privileged position as a trade route.

In 1912, the Treaty of Fez, which was designed to protect the kingdom while providing stability to the country, created the French and Spanish protectorates . The French extended their influence over most of the country, while Spain’s can mostly be seen on the northern strip of the territory.

Morocco regained it’s independence in 1956 and since then has become a haven for visitors from around the world, who flock here to soak in its rich cultural history.

WHERE TO STAY

Choosing where to stay can be a very daunting task and you will need to consider everything the city has to offer. Marrakesh itself is divided into two sectors: the old Medina and the modern European district. Having said that, there are five main distinctive neighborhoods, each with its own vibe and feel. Here is a brief description to help you decide where to stay according to your own interests and travel style. If you choose to stay in the Medina, most attractions are reachable on foot, while taxis may be necessary from other districts.

The Medina is definitely the best area to stay if you want to experience the true and traditional Marrakesh, this is the heart and soul of the city.

Hivernage is the coolest neighborhood, known for its first class hotels, elegant restaurants and classy bars.

Gueliz is located in the European sector of the city, where you can find contemporary art galleries, modern boutiques and trendy restaurants

Chrifia, south of the Medina, is best suited for families with children. Although a bit further out from the city center, it has lots of fun activities, such as fun waterparks, lush gardens and golf courses. A perfect neighborhood if you want to avoid the hustling and bustling of the Medina.

Kennaria is a small neighborhood located within the walls of the Medina just east of Jemma El-Fna. It is home to many artisanal shops and it is famous for having more Hammams than any other area of the city.

Riad Faraj offers a small spa, a nice pool and a beautifully decorated courtyard where you can enjoy a traditional Moroccan breakfast. The Riad Le Clos des Arts where, according to legend, this traditional arab house belonged to an arts trader. The Riad Charmes d’Orient is an adults only traditional riad. The gorgeous Riad de Tarabel offers colonial style and is filled with French antiques. The beautiful tree lined terrace of the Riad Camila offers magnificent views of the mountains and the Medina. The romantic Riad La Sultana offers cooking classes of traditional Moroccan cuisine. The elegant Riad Adore boast bright and airy rooms with luxurious furnishings and balconies. Our friends from Marbella stayed at Le perroquet bleu and were enchanted. We also checked out the riad Oriental Medina and is was very nice. Near the Bahia Palace is a bigger and modern, but beautiful riad with fireplaces for the winter, la briljante.

If staying at a small, traditional riad is not your cup of tea, you can always find “big hotels” which capture the beauty and culture of Morocco. Among the best you can find La Mamounia, one hundred year old history but still inspiring. You can also try Les Jardins de la Koutoubia, The Oberoi Marrakesh or the Mandarin Oriental.

If you are feeling more adventurous and are willing to travel 30 kilometers outside of Marrakesh, you can plan for a stay at a Camp in Agafay. Here you will spend the night in a tent, where you can enjoy traditional Moroccan fare for dinner and breakfast, as well as camel riding and ATV tours of the desert. There are over 20 sites now, so you should do your research. We were at Inara, but new camps are popping up every day…

The beautiful Riad Faraj and the new town Gueliz

After a sumptuous breakfast in the desert and a bit of morning yoga, it was time to bid farewell to Aziz and be on the way. Back to the ‘hustle and bustle’ of Marrakesh with our faithful driver Muhammed, who greeted us like a long lost friend. A bit daunting at first, but we will miss the quiet vastness of the Agafay desert…

We arrived at our riad Faraj and were lucky to be shown the ‘blue room’ – my favorite! I just loved the decor in riad Faraj, it is European with a Moroccan twist. I was told that the owner wanted to create the ‘Costes’ vibe in Marrakech….And since hotel Costes is my favorite hotel in Paris, I felt right at home 🙂 After some mint tea, we took a taxi to the new district, Gueliz for some art and culture and of course some shopping!

The majority of the contemporary scene is centered in the not so “new” town of Gueliz. Apparently Gueliz was founded in 1914. This area was once the French area of the city but today those lines of distinction no longer exist. You may hear it called the French quarter of Marrakech. There are many art galleries and museums to find in Gueliz. Some are a bit more hidden and may require a little extra effort to find, while others are mainstays and you’ll need a real strategy to avoid the crowds!

I particularly liked the SOME slow Concept Store. I was founded by two French designers based in Marrakech. An airy sanctuary of well-curated contemporary craft, you can also shop for customizable raffia bags and satchels. They also gave a modern twist to classic Moroccan ceramic and glassware. On the mezzanine level, you’ll find a selection of artisan Berber rugs for the boho-chic home, and in the French-style kitchen, a range of carefully-chosen spices for the gourmet foodie. They’ve recently opened a small garden cafe, so we took an iced coffee under the orange trees.

We had a nice tajine at our Riad Faraj and were lucky to meet the owner, Alain Ghiretti. What a fascinating guy and what an interesting life story he has. I hope that we will stay in touch. Inshallah, right? We had so much enjoyed this trip and to me it was yet another memorable trip with my mum. Honestly, I would not have wanted to do this with anyone else in the world! For her 80th we did a trip back to memory lane to see her hometown Munich and Seefeld where she met my dad, for her 81st we went to see an opera in Verona and now for her 82, we went on this crazy adventure to Morocco…so, who knows what the future will bring…

Glamping in the Agafay desert

Camping in a desert is a once-in-a-life-time experience. But, we didn’t want to do ‘camping’, nooooo…with Voyage privé it was called ‘glamping’ 🙂 Since this is a first for us, we didn’t know what to expect. And Agafay is not even a real desert, it is more of a mineral land with a lunar landscape. But it is only a half hour away from Marrakech. It is also in Agafay that Inara Camp built its luxury tents.

We can see the white tents from afar, since they stand out from the impressive Atlas Mountains . On arrival we are warmly welcomed by Aziz and lead to a tent with a panoramic view over the desert landscape.

Our tent was to say the least, intriguing . The design and decor were straight out of a movie. I just couldn’t decide if it was ‘Lawrence of Ariaba’, ‘Out of Africa’ (in the desert instead of the jungle) or ‘Sex and the city’ (in Abu Dhabi). But the tent was perfectly comfortable. It had a private bathroom and living room. The bedroom with double bed was facing the panoramic window (foldable and zipable). It also had a terrace and AC for those wanting to keep cool during hot, dry, desert days. However we decided to keep the AC off to save energy and the terrace side of the tent open to enjoy the desert view .

After a nice pot of freshly brewed mint tea, we had a swim and just chilled by the pool. Since we were not really interested in a camel ride or quat rides, we decided to have lunch at the Kasbah Tamadot, Richard Branson his hotel. Anyone who knows me, knows that I’ve been a fan of Richard Branson ever since I worked at Brussels airport and talked to him.

Kasbah Tamadot was actually discovered by Richard Branson his mum Eve, when she adventured in a hot air balloon ride. Here is the story: In 1998, Branson went with his family to Morocco. During a ballooning expedition his parents stumbled upon an old Berber fortress, nestled in the rugged landscape of the Atlas Mountains. His mother Eve knocked on the door, had tea with the owner and then told Richard that she would disown him if he didn’t buy the resort and transformed it into a Virgin Limited Edition retreat. And so he did…

What I didn’t know is that Branson is very popular in Morocco. Because foreign investments can be quite controversial, but Virgin Limited makes everything possible to give back to the community. At Kasbah Tamadot, they make an effort in offering employment to the locals. 98% of Kasbah Tamadot’s staff are from the local areas. They also support other projects from the Eve Branson Foundation by using the revenue from Kasbah Tamadot’s gift shop. But what I love best is that Virgin Limited promotes educational enrichment, and better healthcare for women and young people in the Berber communities that surround Kasbah Tamadot. Beside this, there is a real effort of protecting the environment. They use solar panels on the roof of the car park to heat the main swimming pool. They grow seasonal produce on-site to serve in the “Kanoun Restaurant” And because of Corona, Moroccans can now book a lunch at the resort at a special price. Guess what we did…

Upon our return, we enjoyed some peace and quiet and I caught up on some reading. We had a nice tajine, sat by a bonfire and watched the evening sunset accompanied by the sounds made by scarabs. Scarabs are Agafay’s representative insects (completely harmless, even if pretty bigg and noisy). I must admit that the desert does have something magical and healing….it grows on you…

Marrakech – Hot Air balloon and high tea at the Mamounia

Included in our voyage privé reservation was a Hot Air Balloon adventure. Since this was supposed to be a romantic adventure for my boyfriend, I wasn’t quite convinced that my mum was up for it. But…she did it. I must say: My mother is an amazing woman. she is incredible! And always enthusiastic, even if she had to get up at 4am! For once, the usually chaotic streets of Marrakech were quiet and we arrived at a small Berber village on the outskirts of the city. We got some coffee and tea and were driven to the place where the balloon was being prepared. Getting into the balloon was a bit difficult for my mum, but thanks to some help, she did manage. And…honestly… there is no graceful way to get inside a balloon basket.

The take-off was so gentle you wouldn’t have known we left the ground if you didn’t look down. Once the balloon goes up you can’t believe how easy it is to just fall -haha yes – that was my first thought. You’re literally being held up by a balloon … just floating… But I must admit that is is tranquilizing and quiet up there. Before long we were floating high in the sky, the Atlas Mountains in the distance and just a few other balloons silhouetted against the sunrise. As the sun rose higher in the sky and the red sandstone of the mountains and desert turned shades of red and pink, it was easy to see why Marrakech is nicknamed the Red City.

We’d floated quite a ways since it was still a windy morning and the chase vehicles appeared. But we were happy campers, chatting away with Valeria and Steven – a great couple that we met with Valeria from Argentina and Steven from the UK, both now living a quite exotic life in Marbella. The landing was very soft, we hardly felt a thing, and the pilot and Steven were so nice to help my mum get out of the basket. Afterwards, they drove us to a Berber home for tea and a traditional Moroccan breakfast with all sorts of bread, boiled eggs, fresh fruits, tea and coffee.

After the ‘Hot Air Balloon’ adventure, I felt that we deserved some quiet luxury. And…what better than to have ‘high tea at ‘La Mamounia’? Whenever I did some reading about Morocco, I always read about la Mamounia, learning that it is “The Best Hotel In The World” (according to Condé Nast in 2019), that it has one of the most photogenic swimming pools on the planet, oh and that it was Winston Churchill’s favourite place to stay. So off we go …

We were not disappointed! Recently renovated, the hotel is more luxurious than ever, with plush décor, Moorish opulence and, according to Fatia – the nice hostess- some of the best restaurants Marrakech has to offer. However, beyond the rich fabrics, Instagrammable-tiled courtyards and pristine swimming pools, it’s also an oasis of calm. When you wander through the hotel’s 20-acre park with its fruit trees, tall palms and brightly coloured flowers, it is easy to forget you’re in one of the world’s most hectic cities. They even had red cacti! As with one of its competitors, Es Saadi, La Mamounia is also dedicated to showing art and photography, and even hosts large scale exhibitions around the grounds. It was refreshing to see these famous five star hotels embracing modern art.

I left La Mamounia feeling that it was a hotel striving to be more than just a hotel… it was keen to create a way of life. With its signature scent (available for purchase in the gift shop), signature soundtrack (also available!), a style of service that wasn’t imposing or stiff, and trademark design throughout, it was a place I left and felt like even if I couldn’t remember every detail, I’d remember exactly how I felt while I was there. It is all about the vibe, right? Now back to our riad, that is also lovely, even if it has a totally different vibe…

Marrakech: Our first day

We wake up with the the sound of the call to Prayer. Instantly you feel that you’ve woken up in another world. The world of Islam. We have to get used to the Muezzin’s call to prayer five times a day from the loudspeakers of the Mosque in town. Today, we will explore the medina, the Koran school and the Jardin Majorelle, maybe also the Secret Garden if time permits. On the streets you hear a crazy mix of languages: English, French, Spanish, Arabic, Berber… On a daily basis, most people speak Darija, or Moroccan Arabic, while the sizable Berber community has their own indigenous language. In official settings, you’ll hear Standard Arabic and French. Spanish is very popular in the north, while English is becoming increasingly popular with the young people.

Only a few steps from our riad, in the heart of Marrakech, is the bustling medina. The old Marrakech, also called the red city, is surrounded by 20 red gates with inside a central courtyard, the souk (the Arab market), some enchanting palaces, a beautiful mosque, stunning gardens, amazing restaurants as well as gorgeous hotels and riads. Marrakech does not really have the African vibe, it feels more like a melting pot, influenced by a unique fusion of European, African and Arabic cultures. These days, this ancient city (which is also a World Heritage Site) is embracing modernity too, with a new wave of young creatives driving the art, hotel and food scenes. There are lots of stunning rooftop restaurants that are popping up. And you see a lot of digital nomads, staying in the beautiful riads and typing away. You just need an internet connection and you can work from anywhere in the world. How great is that?

We started off by visiting the ‘Ben Youssef Madrasa’. This was once the largest theological college in Morocco, housing around 900 students for religious studies. Built around 1565, it’s a magnificent example of Islamic architecture with an elaborately decorated main courtyard. Then: Our souk adventure: Walking in the souk is crazy! I’m so proud of my mum! She is enjoying the souk even if she has to do some kamikaze stunt work, to avoid the cars, the donkeys, the motorcycles…You have to experience it with the right mindset because there are just too many people, too many motorcycles, too much haggling and I have to tell you – a crazy amount of shoes! So many beautiful shoes and pottery….I’m loving it! We are getting dizzy from the scent of the spices: kurkuma, mint, ras-el hanout,…the snake charmers are mesmerizing; there are watermen and story tellers and the towering minarets and ornate architecture are from another world— At the Jema El-Fna square merchants from food stands are selling refreshing orange juice, mint teas, dates or even snails and they are all vying for your attention.

Marrakech is definitively a whirlwind of color, noise and excitement. We loved it, but now it is time to chill a bit. What better than to enjoy a cold drink at the Majorelle Gardens. We have visited these gardens about 10 years ago with my son. I loved it then and was excited to see again. The Majorelle Gardens played a big significance in the life of Yves Saint Laurent as he first discovered it in 1966 and fell in love with the peacefulness it offered. In 1980, YSL and Pierre Bergé bought the Majorelle Gardens and saved it from becoming a hotel. It has around 300 plant species, beautiful walking trails and a museum dedicated to the Berber culture. As we strolled around the Majorelle Gardens, we walked through a bamboo forest, we admired the fountains and ponds that featured beautiful lotus flowers. I enjoyed especially the colorful architecture and the hints of Art Deco all around. A great visit, but I would recommend visiting the Majorelle Gardens in the morning because it gets very crowded in the afternoon.

Adventures in Marrakech

Since my boyfriend dumped me and I organised a romantic trip for us, what was I to do? Cancelling a holiday never even sprung to mind. Going solo or with another guy? No, my heart was still aching…

So what better than go on this trip with my mum, especially since it was her 82nd birthday….The trip might not be as romantic as I had in mind, but it will be a memorable one for sure ;). And my mum loves adventure – Marrakech – bring it on!

Marrakech is a beautiful and fascinating city in Morocco. Having been there a few years ago, I believe that no trip to Northern Africa is complete without checking out Marrakech. It is one of those destinations where you can totally forget your sorrows and escape the Belgian ‘ratrace’. From the vibrant red Atlas Mountains to the explosion of colors in the endless markets scattered around the ancient medinas, the place has a unique beauty all in its own. For all things boho chic, it is also a dream shopping destination. So, my mum and I will definitively enjoy ourselves…

Marrakech is also famous for its beautiful riads. These are essentially guesthouses that are often converted from family homes. The city is filled with little boutique riads and they offer an authentic experience. Most of them have a unique look and an interesting history because they are more than a hundred years old. I always wanted to experience staying at one of those Riads and experience the beauty behind those doors…

Finally we have arrived at our First Riad, the Oriental Medina. This riad is hidden behind a secret door. That is often the case and the reason is because riads were a place for family privacy and protection. Because of the lack of windows, the garden and courtyard are placed at the center to feel to make you feel like you’re in nature. After a little swim and a nice dinner, we fall asleep dreaming about our next adventure…visiting the souk and the Jardin Majorelle.