What makes a trip memorable?

This was a trip that I will never forget.
Seeing the world-class soprano Anna Netrebko was on my mother’s bucket list, so when you’re 80 years old, you have no time to lose. Anna Netrebko was performing in Verona and that is where we went.

The fact that the weather Gods were protecting us, made this trip fantastic. My mum still thinks that my father made a deal with the weather angels up there.

But what is it that made this trip so memorable? Was it the luxurious hotels, the opera in majestic Verona, the amazing Italian food, the sunny weather or the James Bond speedboat?

I believe that it is the people who make all the difference. It is people who give you that special feeling and create that magical vibe, it is not things. And we have met so many marvellous people along the way and everyone was really helpful when they saw that my mother had problems walking.

Turandot was beautiful and the feeling, the excitement will stay forever in my heart. But the fact that we talked to such lovely people at the opera, made the event even better. Antonella, who was sitting next to me, used to be an Italian diplomat in her younger years. A very interesting lady. And the 3 crazy Germans who bough tickets for their colleague Andreas his 60th birthday, just because he was a huge fan of Anna Netrebko. Such amazing guys. Andreas was so excited when he told us that he had seen Anna at the morning buffet, because his colleagues had booked the same hotel as the super soprano. People at the opera were all very respectful of the Covid rules, even if we were all obligated to wear an FFP2 mask and have the Corona passport. Everyone was just so happy to be there. And the performers were overjoyed to have a live audience and a real applause again.

Meeting Alberta Cavazza was also special and the story of the villa Borghese and the Cavazza family was truly inspiring. All the staff of the Maximilian hotel were genuinely caring and nice, the General Manager of the Byblos Amista hotel, Luigi Leardini was an art lover and transmitted his passion to all of us. And Giovanni and Simone of the JW Marriott were the soul, the passion and the heart of the hotel. I’m thankful to have met these awesome people on my way and I hope that some of the new connections might even stay a lifetime.

I’m especially thankful that we had the chance to make some more awesome memories.

Venice

Venice….I don’t need to say another word, you already know.

The name alone works like a spell, conjuring up dreams we all have dreamt: a city of sand and glass, floating over water like a butterfly spreading it’s wings. A grey shimmering lagoon mirrors ancient palaces and church bells cut of lace, it’s cold waters creep into the very heart of the city through intricate channels, dark gondolas slide beneath its bridges, the song of the gondolieri…Did you know that Venice was founded in the year 421? Venice’s melancholic beauty is worth dying for, as ‘Death in Venice’ taught us or like Johnny Depp in the movie ‘ The tourist’ with Angelina Jolie. But it’s also the romantic destination per se, the perfect shrine everyone will choose to reveal, revive or relish their love. If travel were a religion, there would be no way around a pilgrimage to Venice, just like the Christians go to Rome, the Jews to Jerusalem and the muslims to Mecca.

My mum used to be a travel guide in Italy and the Venice tour was part of her route for some years. She claims that she used to know her way around Venice blindfolded, so I was curious to find out. Would we get lost or not? When you walk around, it is almost as if Disney has created an amusement park for grownups. I had to keep reminding myself that people really live here. There are grocery stores and schools. There are hospitals and boat ambulances. Image not being able to use your car…so weird. My mother was the only one to cruise Venice with her walker. We enjoyed a coffee at Florian and even took a gondola tour. As our gondola navigated through the Grand Canal, the city of Venice slowly came to life. Old historic houses along the canal standing tall one after another as if welcoming us with their fascinating colours. Bellissima! Venice illustrates true love – with its stunning piazzas, magnificent buildings and the embrace of the water canals upon the whole city. We enjoyed every minute.

Looking at some of the more than 500-year old buildings and the beautiful coloured houses, I believe that Venice is also about texture, colour and exposed brick, no detail is too small. Some of the houses are old and charming, but they are crumbling. Venice is ancient and in constant decay, although the decay is beautiful. That is what draws me in. I think that perfection is boring, right? Can I dare compare Venice to an older beautiful lady or to a vintage Hermes Kelly bag…?

We just walked around, got a little lost, but enjoyed every minute and made new memories.
What I absolutely love about Venice is that you can’t take a bad photo. There is no bad light, no bad angle. It’s just photo after photo of heaven.

It is also the best city to get lost in, since there are so many sights hidden among its canals. The Jewish Ghetto is also worth visiting. The site of the 16th century remained an area of segregation I until the dissolution of the Venetian Republic upon the arrival of Napoleon in 1797. Over 200 Venetian Jews were deported from the city by the Nazi’s during WWII and the Ghetto is now home to a series of bronze reliefs by artist Arbit Blatas, commemorating the Holocaust. A series of wood panels behind wire bear the names of all those who were deported, only eight of whom returned.

There is of course also the Fondaco dei Tedeshi, the luxurious department store with its amazing rooftop cafe, which features an overwhelming view of Venice.

So, why should Venice also be on your bucket list?
You won’t find any city like Venice anywhere in the world. If you are still wondering why you should visit Venice, the answer is simple: Venice is a city that is unique in the world and worth visiting for a million reasons, love listed as one of them. Arrividerci!

From Verona to Venice

Today we had to return our cute little Fiat500, because we are going to visit….Venice…hooray!
To charge our batteries, I found us another special hotel, away from the crowds. How does a hotel in Venice with its own private island, an award-winning spa, a Michelin starred restaurant and a rooftop pool, sound to you? Too good to be true, right? But, this mythical place actually exists and we are staying there, in the Marriott Venice Resort & Spa.

JW Marriott is the Marriott’s flagship luxury brand and the JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa is considered as one of its best hotels. Besides the fact that is was away from the hustle and bustle of Venice, they advertised to bring you by speedboat to the hotel. That is what won me over :). A special treat for my mum ‘s upcoming birthday: We entered through the magnificent “James Bond” style doors at the resort’s dock, where our luggage was whisked away by the friendly bellman Ali. One can decide to stay near San Marco but, for the same price, would have to trade cramped up hotel rooms with the convenience of an American brand hotel. Here, I hope that we will have the best of both worlds.

The hotel was a former hospital for pulmonary illnesses. For the renovation, no expense has been spared. The end result by architect Matteo Thun has a pleasing contemporary feel. This sets it apart from most of the hotels in Venice which have a more eclectic decor. Isola delle Rose means island of the Roses and these are in abundance on the island. Their heavy scent creates an intoxicating effect. There are also quite a few art works around, but less than the more than 150 exquisite pieces in the Byblos Amista in Verona.

The spacious hotel lobby has been decorated in harmonious shades of blue and taupe. Formal check in desks have been eschewed in favour of low level seating, giving a much more relaxed atmosphere. Inside the decor continues the blue and taupe theme, with some very funky touches such as wicker baskets.

I’m happy to learn that there is a jogging map and even headphones and bicycles available to explore the 16 acres of grounds. Apparently there is even some wildlife, such as herons on the grounds. After the discovery of the grounds, you can enjoy a relaxing massage in the largest spa in Venice and seemingly one of the 50 most recommended spas worldwide.

Now we will relax at the beautiful infinity pool, enjoy a nice dinner and prepare to visit Venice tomorrow. Another nice experience to look forward to…

About the Byblos hotel

As soon as you pull into the imposing circular driveway, complete with fountain, you know you’re in for something special. From the outside the Byblos Art Hotel, Villa Amista seems like any other stately Italian villa, but inside the décor pops. More than 180 pieces of modern art from the likes of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Vanessa Beecroft, Damian Hirst, Ettore Sottsass are featured in the guest rooms and common areas. Corridors on each level are decorated in a singular theme from street art and pop art to Memphis. Renowned designer Alessandro Mendini is responsible for a set of three signature suites on the hotel’s top floor.

Speaking of Byblos Art Hotel, this old medieval villa has been completely renovated a few years ago and now perfectly combines a new contemporary Italian design with the typical Villa design for which the region Veneto is know all over the world. You may not be entirely wrong if you are familiar with the brand Byblos, thanks to the famous and favourite of mine Byblos Saint Tropez, however, the one on the Cote d’Azur is not in any way related to the Villa Amista in Verona. Actually, the Italian Byblos brand is a fashion label that initiated a kind of new design hotel era in Italy. location. Beauty is represented in different ways. Five-star hotels are always lavishly decorated and are so luxurious that you never want to leave them. Byblos Art Hotel is a contemporary art gallery housed in a 15th century villa created by architect Michele Sanmichele then later completed by distinguished architect Ignazio Pellegrini in the 1700s. A 20,000 square-meter manicured Italian garden surrounds the elegant villa. 

History and art magically combine at the Byblos Art Hotel. The history begins in Roman times when a fortified block house was erected on the site. It morphed into the 15^th century Villa Amista which was renovated during the 18^th century . Remnants of the earlier iterations have been incorporated into the present hotel. The wine cellar is housed in a 14^th century vault. Time was not kind; the villa fell into ruin. The Facchini family fell in love with the abandoned building and decided to turn it into something special.  The hotel opened in 2005. The family also owns the Byblos fashion brand and are big time art, furniture & lighting collectors. These strengths combine to form one amazing hotel loaded with gems.

At first glance, it is a classic Venetian villa on 5 stunning acres of garden. But quickly you sense there is something a bit different, a bit unconventional. To the left, as you approach the villa, is a sculpture of an orchid…I found it very erotic. The stairs to the entrance have old classic statues and modern bauble lights. Both are clues. But nothing prepares you for the ultra-modern main salon designed, like the rest of the interiors, by Alessandro Mendini. It is crowded with treasure… that is why the GM Luigi Leardini gave my mum a private tour (I must admit that I’m a bit ashamed, but I chose to have a massage instead…) to help her look for Damian Hirst, Anish Kapoor, Cindy Sherman and Philippe Starck.  Robert Indiana and Andy Warhol are waiting when you get to the check in desk. A bit overwhelming at first, it takes a few minutes to let the magnificence sink in. So much more art is found throughout the hotel; the large rooms all have original pieces (and big practical bathrooms, this is a 5 star hotel after all). The Mimmo Rotella collages in the dining room are made of torn advertisements of the Byblos fashion brand. Byblos home furnishings and Murano Glass chandeliers are found throughout. It’s not all art… there is a fabulous Pompeian style spa, a glamourous pool, bar & restaurant.  The massage was from another world – so good! Breakfast in the winter garden was also delicious.! We truly do not want to leave, but we have another magical destination awaiting us: Venice!

The magic of opera in Verona

We all know that Italy and opera is a match made in heaven and the Verona opera festival is the pinnacle of this beautiful marriage. Before Corona, hundreds of thousands of people from all over the world flock to Verona in Northern Italy each summer in order to enjoy an outstanding opera performance under the stars in the city’s Roman Arena. This year, my mom and I were one of them.

Yesterday, we saw the opera Turandot and I’m still buzzing with excitement. Attending the Verona Opera Festival exceeded all our expectations. So, if you ever wonder if you should give it a try, I can only emphatically tell you: Do it! And do it now! No matter if you are a fine ‘conaisseur’ of opera or a complete novice to the scene, seeing an opera at Arena di Verona may become one of your most cherished memories of Italy. Just like it happened to us.

There was definitively something magical in listening to Puccini’s Nessus Dorma soar up the sky from the stage with a spectacularly lavish stage set. A large orange moon had made its dramatic appearance in the night sky just moments before. As the iconic aria declaring triumph and love reached its victorious point, the conductor energetically extracted the very best crescendo from the orchestra and then the audience dissolved in a loud applause and shouts of ‘Bravo, Maestro’

I felt the goosebumps flowing down my spine and just as Yusuf Eyvazov (Anna’s husband for real), the conductor and the orchestra launched into an encore of the iconic piece, I had that unique feeling of being part of something special. Something exceptional and outstanding that made me forget about the small problems of my daily life and lifted my spirit sparkling a ‘corona’ forgotten desire to savour the moment to turn this mortal, often baffling existence into an inspiring achievement.

If Calaf was avoiding his imminent victory on stage, alongside I was savouring the potential of triumph and had my dreams returned to me. The music, the singing, the energy on stage made it possible for me to dream again. And this is the beauty of art which the Verona Opera Festival is one of the best expressions of. And I believe that all 3000 spectators felt it, even with the obligatory FFP2 masks and the respectable distances.

Franco Zeffirelli’s sumptuous production of Puccini’s late masterpiece was replaced by smart technology, Because of Covid, it was not allowed to change the sets all the time. But smart technology and opera superstar Anna Netrebko filled the Arena with the atmosphere of ancient Peking. Hundreds of choir artists and dancers filled up the Arena (instead of the stage – again because of the Covid rules) creating in mere seconds the illusion that we were at a traditional market square in china some hundreds of years ago. It was all so splendid, so well thought-out and so effortless. Nothing was left to chance and yet it all looked so natural and so unrehearsed like it was happening there and then for the very first time. The large screens showing the lyrics in both Italian and English certainly helped a lot to follow the action. Soon, I could feel the pain of the ice-cold princess Turandot struggling to find her place in a male-dominated world by refusing to be treated as a marriage commodity, thus imposing impossible to solve riddles to any potential suitor.

Unrequited love, gender power battles, beheadings, emotions running high, dramatic singing, lavish costumes, splendid decors – the stage kept my full attention for hours on end. Ping, Pang and Pong – Turandot’s ministers – providing a welcome comic relief among all the suffering and bloodthirsty threats. It was passionate, inspiring, tragic and soul-uplifting all at the same time.

Despite the corona rules (FFP2 obligatory masks, Corona pass, 1 chair in between, temperature check), everything was so serene and people were all very respectful and just so happy to be there. The loud applause at the end was the appreciation of all of us being able to witness opera ‘live’ again.

It has been a beautiful evening. Another memory to cherish for a lifetime.

Arena di Verona

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The Verona Opera Festival is one of the most prestigious opera events in the world. Each summer it attracts hundreds of thousands of people. With Covid still ruling, this year it’s mostly Europeans. The festival is traditionally held in the almost 2000 years old Roman amphitheatre known as ‘Arena di Verona’, which is located in the heart of this Northern Italian city. The festival started in August 1913 with a performance of Aida in commemoration of the centenary of Giuseppe Verdi’s birth. To this date, Aida is the most performed opera at the Verona Opera Festival. The very first festival performances immediately stood apart with their new stenographic style. Instead of using the typical for the era flat-painted decors, three-dimensional stage sets were developed to really transport the spectator into the heart of the action. For some of the earliest performances live elephants and camels were brought on stage and once a small lake was created to conjure water reflections of the Nile in Aida.

Some of the world’s most famous opera singers have graced the stage of the Verona Opera Festival. For example, Maria Callas was a regular between 1947 and 1954.

This year the participation of great couples on stage as well as in life has been confirmed, from Anna Netrebko and Yusif Eyvazov, who, following the extraordinary experience in 2019, now return for three performances of Turandot, to Roberto Alagna and Aleksandra Kurzak, together for a very rare performance in both roles of Cavalleria rusticana and Pagliacci. Also to be remembered is the debut of Jonas Kaufman’s and the welcome return of stars Placido Domingo and Roberto Bolle.

As much as we would like to see them all, we are here to tick off my mom’s bucket list, so we are here to see Anne Netrebko in Turandot. I’m so excited….it is about to begin.

From Lake Garda to Verona

After a bit of healthy exercise in the morning, we went to Lazise and Sirmione. Lazise is a charming little village located on the east shore of Lake Garda. The first thing you see as soon as you arrive are the Medieval walls, perfectly preserved, that give to this town an elegant and noble flair. They were built, along with the Castle, under the rule of the Scaligeri family of Verona (XIII century). The most majestic building of the village is anyhow the Castle. Over the centuries it was expanded destroyed, restored, and it became property of Verona, Lombardy, Venice, France and Austria. Finally it was purchased in the 1850s by Count Giovanni Battista Buri who restored it and surrounded it with a beautiful park. It can not be visited, unfortunately, because it is still inhabited by Buri’s heirs.

Rich families from Roman times used to come on holiday to Sirmione and Lazise when they needed to take a break from wining, dining and feasting. Tennyson wrote: “There beneath the Roman ruin where the purple flowers grow”. The beautiful purple flowers were everywhere.

But we had to say our goodbyes to Lake Garda and take the road again, this time to Verona…..

Verona is intriguing to many and made world famous because of the star-crossed lovers of Romeo and Juliet. However …this is a Shakespearean tale.

Contrary to her literary reputation, Verona is not a city caught in the wild throes of love, but one that drips with old-time romance. Her summer opera, world-famous balcony and Renaissance galleries bring in the tourists – but it’s her secret gardens, underground remains and hidden churches that offer the most mystique. Even the Veronesi remain resolutely in love with their city, despite the sloppiness and Shakespeare.

I heard that in Verona there is a ‘golden hour’. It starts around 6pm – the city is then bathed in the gilded light of dusk, the squares fill up with spritz-drinking couples and elderly locals on a pre-dinner passeggiata. In Piazza Erbe the bell tolls, glasses chink and Verona comes truly to life.

Walking through Centro Storico, we admired the sites, stopped for a coffee, took pictures and just enjoyed the vibe. Of course we also visited the shops at Via Mazzini and I just had to make a bathroom stop at the luxurious Sogno di Giullietta hotel. Amazing!

The most well-known attraction of Verona is naturally its arena, located at Piazza Bra. Dating back to the 1st century, this arena is one of a few that’s still functional and the best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world, with frequent operas and concerts hosted in the summer. The arena seats up to 30.000 spectators. We will see more of the arena in a bit, but now we need find our quirky hotel near Verona….

Visit of the Borghese villa

Today I took a boat on my own to Isola del Garda to visit the Borghese villa. I absolutely wanted to visit the island and the villa and it was to difficult for my mum to walk around there. Upon approaching the island by speed boat, it’s hard not to be completely captivated by the grand neo-gothic-Venetian villa that stands proudly over the luscious greenery of the island.

Believe me when I say that photo’s of the villa paint a beautiful picture, but they simply don’t do it justice. I was warmly welcomed by Alberta Cavazza. One of the owners of the Cavazza family. The family consists of 3 sisters and 4 brothers, who have opened the island since 2001 to guided tours and events, with the aim of sharing their unique heritage, still unknown to many. Thanks to those visits and events, it is possible for them to carry out important restoration works on the property and make improvements to the centuries-old park. These visits keep a lot of the family heritage alive and they were smartly invented by Cavazza, a group of millennials, who have taken an active and entrepreneurial interest in preserving their families legacy.

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The history of the island dates back to 878, when Charlemagne, king of Italy and Bavaria, donated the island to the monks of San Zeno of Verona. Sometime in the 13th century, St. Francis of Assisi founded the first retreat, using the natural grotto’s on the island and that spot became the island of the monks. In 1437, two churches were constructed on the island and for 100 of years, Isola del Garda existed as a sanctuary for the study of theology and philosophy. In the late 1700, under a Napoleonic proclamation, the monastry was abandoned and the island deserted, except for pirates and criminals. A few years later, the government conceded it to the Conter familia of Salo, who then sold it to the Benedetto family of Portese in 1803. Changing hands several more times, the island has been in the current ownership of the Borghese-Cavazza family since 1870.

Alberta thrilled me with her humble way to share childhood memories from the island and the palace. Her stories about her grandparents and ancestors on the island during wars and occupations brought history to life in a way you seldom experience. She told us about her family’s daily life on the island; bringing the children to school by boat every morning and the extremely hard work to restore the palace and the garden. The biggest work goes on during winter months when the island is closed for the public. The villa and gardens are beautiful. Part of the horticultural layout reminded me of an English cottage garden, which we later found out was indeed the case as the mother of the Cavazza family is indeed English. As we toured the garden we were then guided to the villa and were shown around a couple of rooms inside the house. What you must remember is that the family still live in the Villa and some rooms remain private.

After the tour we were shown to a beautiful balcony area which was laid out with tables which provided fresh olives, local made cheese, crusty bread with olive oil and balsamic. This was accompanied by soft drinks, water and a lovely rose wine which is produced by the family if you wished to indulge in an alcoholic beverage. After about 25 minutes the tour concluded with a walk around the lower lake garden and then back to the jetty to catch our return speedboat. The tour in my humble opinion was quite magical and I would like to take this opportunity to thank the Borghese Cavazza family for sharing their beautiful island and I would definitely return again to this jewel on Lake Garda. This was a wonderful way to spend a laid-back afternoon on the lake. For the few hours we were there, we were able to escape the chaos that is Lake Garda in the summer and instead step into a tranquil paradise. Of course, I bought the book ‘The enchanted island’, written by Contessa Alberta and the perfume made of a combination of flowers and citrus sets that grow on the island. That way, I’ll never forget the breathtaking view over the lake from the palace.

Visit of Punto San Vigilio, the most charming corner of Lake Garda.

Punto San Vigilio is an enchanting paradisiac peninsula property of the aristocratic family of the Counts ‘Guarienti di Brenzone’, located in the east coast of Lake Garda. It is widely regarded as one of the most romantic spots across Europe. Its fame has grown thanks to it being an elegant and picturesque retreat cove that has long inspired artists, philosophers, writers and politicians such as Napoleon, Tsar Alexander II, Winston Churchill, Prince Charles, King Juan Carlos of Bourbon, Lawrence Olivier and Vivien Leigh, who slept on its shores at the XVI century ‘Locanda San Vigilio’, a luxurious hotel facing the idyllic bay. It truly is a place of magical beauty that awakens the poet in everyone.

Visiting Punto San Vigilio is one of the most cinematic experiences that I had so far in Italy. Surrounded by water on three sides, with a citrus grove, a stunning beach, a 15th-century inn, a 16th-century villa, and a cobbled street that leads to a small harbour with the tables of a renowned tavern placed around it, the place is the interpretation of a dream. I cannot help but fall in love with the place. The walk towards the bay alone is epic: along a cypress land down a cobblestone path through the medieval gates, lit by the light of old lanterns you reach a patio where past a threshold you flow into the pier. And of course we are in Italy, so here is a romantic legend: There is a small rocky outcrop that sticks above the water just off the tip of the small harbour. According to an old local legend, this is the nymph Stella who was turned into stone by the satyr Virgilius after she rebuked his advances. It is called the ‘o Scoglio della Stella’.

Nowadays, Punta di San Vigilio is recognised as the most romantic place at Italy’s largest lake. Some even call it ‘the Portofino of Lake Garda’. The golden sunsets that can be enjoyed sitting at a table placed on the stone jetty of the old harbour have become the stuff of legends. A beautiful hotel has just re-opened its doors, the Locanda San Vigilio. We, of course had to enjoy a latte macchiato at the terrace of the hotel. I was a wonderful moment.

I think that it is definitively worth a visit to see the 15th-century inn, the 16th-century villa, the Italian gardens, and a beach that the legends say the lake’s mermaids would swim to to offer their Elixir of Love to the local sailors. Punto San Vigilio is like a piece of heaven on Earth. As Conte Agostino Brenzone said in 1540: “There are three areas in the world: Africa, Asia, Europe; Europe is the most beautiful in the world; Italy is the most beautiful in Europe; Lombardy is the most beautiful in Italy; Garda is the most beautiful in Lombardy; San Vigilio is the most beautiful in Garda. Thus, San Vigilio is the most beautiful place in the whole world.” . He might have had a point….

Bardolino and hotel Maximilian

Here we are at Lake Garda. In Bardolino to be precise. Bardolino is a picturesque town in the Provence of Verona, Veneto. Located on the Eastern shore of Lake Garda. Their economy is mostly focused on tourism and the production of wine.

It must have been the name that made me choose the Maximilian hotel or the fact that it is described as ‘high class hospitality, friendly staff and quirky’. I just love people and places that are out of the ordinary. The hotel is quirky all right, but it is unique and it sits just across from the stunning Lake Garda. Care and attention have gone into the decoration of the hotel – it has brightly coloured walls and furnishings that blend modern with vintage. It certainly is a hotel with personality. Some unique ceilings are decorated with doors that may turn your holiday upside down. Bikes seem to be the focal point at the Maximilian, with old bicycle frames of all shapes, colours and sizes used as decorative elements, from wall art to bathroom sink holders. But these funny touches bring the hotel to life.

Today, we enjoyed the pool and discovered the beautiful streets of Bardolino. The historic center of Bardolino is a beautiful blend of stone streets, pretty houses and lakefront hotels. A marina brings in the colourful boats and there is golf and tennis available along the lake’s water sports. In the hills are plenty of activities too, such as skiing, horseback riding and mountain biking.

And in the evening restaurante Unico at our hotel. And the restaurant is famous for it’s…..pizza!