Hello, I’m Isabelle, single mother of a fabulous son Max.
My life has always been about travel in one way or another. My parents were tour guides in Europe. As a little girl I used to travel with them in the tourbus. I loved listening to their tales about Amsterdam, Paris and London.
After I finished my studies, I started working for Sabena Airlines (now Brussels Airlines). I must admit, these were the best years of my life…Unfortunately the Belgian airline company went bankrupt and so I left after 13 years.
But, since I was born with the travelbug, I still want to discover the world as often as time and budget allows.
I would like to share some of my travel experiences with you and I hope that you enjoy!
Today we visited Saint-Paul-de-Vence. I just love this art town in the Provence, it brings back sweet memories of holidays with my parents. Nestled away in the hills, Saint-Paul-de-Vence has a bit more breathing room than Nice,Cannes, and Monaco. Larger thanmy belovedSaint Rafael, but still small and a different vibe.
In my eyes, Saint-Paul-de-Vence ticks all the boxes of Provence stereotypes: old men playing pétanque, beautiful views over the hills, small alleyways and art galleries. Being one of the oldest medieval towns on the French Riviera, the ramparts from the 16th century surrounding the city are still visible. Saint-Paul-de-Vence is also well known for having been a home to many artists including Pablo Picasso and Marc Chagall. But also to Jean-Paul Sartre, Matisse, Renoir, Billy Wyman (of the Rolling Stones), James Baldwin, and many more. Here every house is an art gallery or a studio-atelier – it is easy to see why artists fled here to gather inspiration. We walked the web of inner streets, climbing the many stone steps, while we enjoyed entering all the little shops full of art.
One unique private collection on the Cote d’Azur, however, belongs to the legendary ‘La Colombe d’Or’: a small, historic auberge. Learning that it was a must-visit for its magnificent art, for its simple Provencal cuisine and for the enchanting flower-filled courtyard, I was curious to see the auberge, that started out as a humble three-room inn and roadside tavern. As the story goes Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Kandinsky, Miro and others who were frequent guests paid their food with paintings. Now paintings of these famous artists decorate the walls of the rustic dining room.
Having experienced lunch at the famous ‘Colombo d’Or”, I was craving for more art. Thus the next stop – the ‘Fondation Maeght’. The museum is considered one of the most interesting places of its type in the world. From the moment I arrived I had a feeling of excitement and anticipation.
The Maeght Foundation was the brainchild of art dealers, Aimé and Marguerite Maeght. Following the tragic death of their young son, they took a trip to the United States, where they discovered the Barnes, Philips and Guggenheim collections. At the encouragement of their good friend and artist George Braque, they decided to redirect their grief into the creation of a private foundation in collaboration with the artists represented by the Maeghts. It was the 1950s and the Maeghts had been running a successful art gallery in post-World War II Paris. They had cultivated longstanding and deep relationships with the masters of Modernism including Henri Matisse. Their financial success enabled the purchase of land in Saint-Paul de Vence where they first built a home and later the foundation.
The outcome is a modernist building in the middle of wooded hills, overlooking the Mediterranean. Their architect was Josep Lluís Sert from Catalonia. He had previously designed Jean Miró’s studio. Painters and sculptors such as Giacometti, Miró and Chagall worked with him on the project and artworks were integrated into the building’s design from an early stage. Some people might say that it looks out of place but for me it fits its surroundings. I love the roof feature with its curves and the way that light reflects off the whiteness of the building. From the roof you are also rewarded with stunning views across the hills towards the Mediterranean.
There is art everywhere you look. My favourite spaces were outside. The Giacometti courtyard with his sculptures Walking Man, Standing Woman and Large Head. These sculptures were arranged by Giacometti himself. And the Miró Labyrinth, that was designed by the artist and his friend, ceramicist Josep Llorens Artigas.
I spent the whole visit walking around with a big smile on my face. I was truly in my happy place! Why did I feel like this? What was it about the museum that had such an impact on me? I think that it was a combination of three key factors: architecture, art and atmosphere. So, if you are in the area of Spain-Paul-de-Vence and you are an art-lover, you cannot miss this Foundation.
Isabelle's travel stories 