Roundtrip of Croatia and Montenegro – Day 1: Dubrovnik

I’m very excited to discover a city that I have never been before. Dubrovnik in Croatia….In the 80s, I went with my parents to Rovinj in Istria and now I look forward to further explore this beautiful country of Croatia. Dubrovnik has attracted more than its share of superlatives over the years – it’s known as the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ and according to playwright George Bernard Shaw “Those who seek paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik”. Big words – but Dubrovnik lived up to the high expectations and I couldn’t help being charmed by the vibe of the city.

Entering the city through the Pile Gate, there might be a lot more visitors and gift shops than a few centuries ago but there’s still the feeling that not too much else has changed. The old city is pedestrianised, so you don’t have to worry about traffic as you wander through the marble-paved streets. This old city is a jumbled mixture of Gothic and Renaissance churches, Venetian palazzos and carved fountains, mixed in with terrace restaurants and a growing array of smart boutiques and hotels. But one of the best things to do is to get up high above the city onto its walls. The whole of the old city is encircled by 1.2 miles of thick stone walls which reach up to 25 metres high and six metres wide in places and have been protecting the city for centuries – whether that’s from invaders or earthquakes.

The first city walls were built in the 11th century but the shape you see today dates back to the 14th century when Dubrovnik gained independence from Venice. As well as the walls there are four gates to let people in and out – two by land and two by sea – and four fortresses to protect the most vulnerable points. Despite more than its fair share of attacks over the years, the walls protected Dubrovnik for centuries without ever being breached. But one thing that has left its mark on them is a more recent conflict – the Balkan Wars. The city was subject to major bombing during the 1990s, though it’s hard to spot it now. The only clues you have are the pockmarks left on some buildings and a few roofs which have been restored, with their bright orange newer roof tiles standing out against the more weathered originals. Walking the walls also gives you a bird’s-eye view right into the homes and gardens of the city’s residents. You get little snapshots of their everyday life as you pass – hanging out washing from their windows, drinking coffee in the garden, stretched out on the rocks catching some sun. Though you can’t help wondering what they make of having a procession of tourists wandering past every day, and whether they resent having to close their shutters to escape the constant eyes and camera lenses. The morning sunshine was just about perfect for walking around and having a drink. I’d been tipped off about Buža bar which I spotted en route, and a seat under the umbrellas right on the waterfront looked hard to beat.

So after a one-hour tour with a local guide, we knew that Dubrovnik was an ancient City. We also learned that it was steeped in history, but here are a few facts which made me sit up and take notice. Ohhhh yes… I learn something new every day…
1. It’s claimed that the world’s first commercial pharmacy opened in Dubrovnik in 1317. Allied to the Monastery then, it is still in existence today, but with rather more recognisable modern remedies. That said, it still stocks some creams and herbal teas with recipes faithful right back to the 1300s.
2. Dubrovnik was the first ‘country’ (being a Republic at the time), to banish slavery in 1416.
3. Dubrovnik had the first orphanage in the world, which opened its doors to take in children in 1432.
4. Agatha Christie spent her second honeymoon in Dubrovnik.
5. Dubrovnik is quite the Grande Dame of the film world having featured in Game of Thrones, Star Wars and Robin Hood
6. The Jesuit Staircase is the Game of Thrones filming spot for perhaps one of the most iconic scenes in the series, Cersei’s Walk of Shame. This is the scene where Cersei was forced to walk naked through the streets while everybody yells “Shame (just for the record: I kept my clothes on when I walked it :))

I was intrigued to learn more about the first orphanage and here is what I learned about the unwanted babies of Dubrovnik:
In much of Europe, during difficult times when young mothers couldn’t keep their baby, it was common to dump the newborn into the trash. (Can you imagine…) But not in Dubrovnik! Unlike most places in Europe, Dubrovnik had an orphanage and a process to handle the situation of unwanted babies. A mother could come out into the night with a black hood and leave the newborn in the care of the orphanage. The hood ensured anonymity and no questions were asked. Before giving the baby away, the mother made two identical blankets. One to wrap the baby and one for herself. If her conditions improved, she could use the blanket to claim the baby back from he orphanage….What a story!