Today I did experience the “Wonders of Negril” organised by Sandals Montego Bay. Dalton was the tourguide and he was phenomenal! He was very knowledgeable and a walking Wikipedia for Jamaica. He knew every foreigner living on the island and told us about their personal story and showed us their beautiful homes. I learned a lot about the history and the character of Jamaica, so much that I need to come back to experience the rest of this island.
The history of Negril
Prior to the 1970s, Negril was a real rural backwater occupied mainly by local fishermen. There was no main road connecting this spot on the west coast to the rest of Jamaica, so you had to arrive by local ferry. Adventurous travellers, mainly from the US seeking to escape the modern world would make the effort to reach Negril and often stay with local families. As word got around, it became a popular place for hippies to drop out and get high. Some of those early pioneers were Vietnam vets looking for a permanent escape from a crazy world. Slowly, a number of permanent guest houses, hotels and bars took root. The road opened up access, cementing Negril’s place on the global hippy trail.
Today, Negril is something of a hybrid place – the ageing hippies are still there running some of the most popular venues in this part of the island. There are a number of modern all-inclusive resort chains sharing the beach with smaller independent guest houses. But it still maintains some of that original easy-going charm, despite the flashy vibe. There is love for everyone here in Negril. It has also become home to some of the best eco-hotels in Jamaica.
Some of the rich and famous stayed in Negril or have a house there. Richard Bogaert, Sylvester Stallone, Bill Cosby, Oprah Winfrey, Harry and Megan to just name a few…
My favourite part in Roundhill, because Ralph Lauren has 2 beautiful homes there: Rockhill and the white Orchid. Famous faces have long been a fixture at Round Hill. In the ’50s and ’60s, Clark Gable, Grace Kelly, and Claudette Colbert sunned, dipped, and dined next to the likes of Alfred Hitchcock, Yul Brynner, and Ian Fleming. John and Jacqueline Kennedy honeymooned at one of the 29 ocean-facing properties on Round Hill’s 110 acres. But for the Laurens, Jamaica became more than a respite from the cold. A strong connection to the land and its people instilled a desire to give back to the island as much as it had given them. When Hurricane Gilbert ravaged the island in 1988, the Laurens partnered with the Red Cross to help with supplies of food and clothing, and in 2002, the Jamaican government recognized Ralph for his commitment to its people with an Order of Distinction in the Rank of Honorary Commander. Two years later, the country put his visage on a commemorative postage stamp, an honor previously given to Winston Churchill and Princess Diana. Here is the story
I enjoyed lunch at the Sandals hotel and walked a bit on their beach. It has been labeled one of the best beaches in the world, justifiably, with its miles and miles of white sand and calm ocean blue waters. A tiny bit like my beach in Ostend, but with more colonial charm and definitively more sun (although we had some rain that day too)
We also visited the cliffs. They are situated to the south of the beach where some of the oldest tourist properties sit. Completely different in character to the beach, the area look more than an adults-only place to me. some of the bars sit atop 15 meter cliffs that drop perilously into the bright blue Caribbean Sea. The legendary Rick’s cafe, established in 1974 and rebuilt twice after destructive hurricanes is the most famous of them all. It was very busy when I was there, but it does have the laid back atmosphere that attracted people in the beginning. If you’re feeling ‘brave’, you can join the cliff jumpers, who plunge into the cooling water below. I must admit, I did not feel that brave that day :). I was happy to drink my rum and punch at the bar while observing the craziness unfold below. The locals did every kind of flip and jump trick you can imagine. Extremely entertaining!
After watching the sunset at rick’s cafe, it was time to dream some more about the beautiful Round Hill. If you ever want to stay where Meghan and Harry stayed in Jamaica check it out here.
Isabelle's travel stories 